Frodo, "Go back, Sam! I’m going to Mordor alone.". Sam, "Of course you are, and I’m coming with you!"

Well, substitute OF1 and OF2 who ventured deep into Mordor with close up views of Mount Doom.  Anyway, leaving JRR Tolkien to his Lord of the Rings fantasy book and getting back to the reality of two old farts on tour.  Actually this blog does drift into fantasy on occasions but today was fantastic.

Firstly, we successfully completed the 19.4km Tongariro Crossing so it's another tick on the bucket list.  (We don't have one but it is the sort of thing that we would put on one of we did).  We climbed 765m and descended 1125m (it was a one way walk). However, the numbers are secondary to a fabulous walk over volcanic landscapes and a little glaciation (L1 would love it). 

The day started at the ridiculous time of 05:45, brekky at 6:15 and bus pick up at 7:00.  The bus was very old (Hino - made in India?) and soon you realised why; the 9km dirt track up to the starting point would have done our little Toyota no good at all. There was low cloud as we left our lodge but this was quickly burned off at height - leaving lovely views of the valleys filled with fluffy cotton wool.  Our bus picked up at three hotels/YHA and we quickly realised that there were many buses from all over the place doing the same thing - it was not just Frodo and Gollum - there were hundreds and hundreds of folk coming with us!  The track was good as it was maintained except for the higher sections and included a lot of steps (up and, particularly, down).  For a bit of excitement there was also a very, very small section of fixed rope (unnecessary on such a dry day).  We started walking steadily uphill in tussock grass country admiring glacial moraines for about a hour.  Here there were two toilets and a queue as big as a One Direction concert.  (disclaimer:. Neither OF has been to a concert by this popular beat combo).  OF1 eschewed the queue and headed for a pyroclastic flow (that's a geographical term not a euphemism). 

The next sections were great.  First a very steep hike up to South Crater with  super views of Mount Ngauruhoe/Doom.  Both OFs were in fine form on this uphill and we were quickly in the crater which has no vegetation to speak of and it was described to us as moon-like. Note: our moon experience is the same as a one direction concert.  It is filled with flows from Mount Ngauruhoe and was very atmospheric.  Then we climbed out of this crater - the path was  not maintained here so we struggled for traction on the rock and ash path - to the top of Red Crater which comprised (you've guessed it) red and chocolate brown rock (from rusting of the iron in the rock) and an active fumarole.  We were on a thin lip here which was like Striding Edge with a brisk breeze trying to blow your hat to America.  However, it was a real photographer's paradise with cone volcanoes, craters and lakes the colour of emerald and blue (called the Emerald Lake, etc.,).  We will be filling pages and pages at this rate....

The descent from the high point was steep fine rock and ash which terrified some of our fellow walkers but these OFs found geriatric scree running the best method.  (As Dad dancing is to real dancing,!). Lunch was taken by the Emerald Lake which is not potable as it gets its colour from dissolved minerals in the water and is acidic (pH 5).

We were on the home leg now but only halfway through the walk.  Firstly, we walked through Central Crater and admired it's lava flows then descended by a zig-zag path through alpine flowers past the The Mai craters which erupted in 2012 and we saw the steam coming out of several vents and the air stunk of sulphur - all very .....volcanic. The last 4km of the path meandered through the tussock grassland then forest to wait for our creaky old bus. One moment of excitement in the forest was a sign which warned of the danger of lahars and asked you to move through the next 700m quickly without stopping and not to enter if you heard one.  The old geography teacher in me sprung into action, explaining that a lahar was a water lubricated debris flow containing razor-sharp pyroclastic rocks

It had been a sunny day and we both drank two litres each.  This was water - we are celebrating tonight with something a tad stronger. This is rated as New Zealand's best one day walk and it certainly is a very special one but sharing it with so many others and the paths made it a 9.5/10 for me.

Currently we are having a preprandial before hitting the station cafe.  Not the sort of place for a celebration dinner?  Well, in the evening it transforms into a smart, white tablecloth, restaurant.  We sampled last night and instantly booked again.

Tomorrow we take our tired legs (and Kivin) to Napier where we plan to look around the Art Deco bits before heading off to our digs to prepare for Wednesday's bike ride around the vineyards.  Next blog will report on our wine adventures...

Cheers!

One more joins the party

Sunday 5th

At last a quiet day with just 100km to drive.  A tad of a lie in before a visit to Taupo and a bit of shopping for the Tongariro Crossing tomorrow.  It is 19km but the graph of ascent is virtually overhanging.  However, OF1 now has an orange and white beanie and we both have neck scarf thingies that you can convert to a hat and 20 other things (but not a coffee machine). Oh, and a map but it may well be wall-to-wall walkers as the forecast is good.

We also picked up a hitch hiker.  We have been joined by Kiwi Kevin (pronounced "Kivin") who is sweet natured and will be a great addition to the team.  He features in today's photo.

It was a very pleasant drive; firstly along the shores of Lake Taupo then into the mountains.  There are three in a row:
Mount Ngauruhoe - active volcano and used as Mount Doom in 'Lord of the Rings' and a parasitic cone of:
Mount Tongariro - our destination tomorrow (well just under the summit), plus the highly photogenic..
Mount Ruapehu - snow covered all year and ski resort in winter

We are currently ensconced in Piper's Lodge which is a cross between a ski lodge and mountain hut.  We have an ensuite but there are plenty of dorms as well.  It is large and comfortable in a relaxed, tatty, wooden ceilings and walls way.  There are 3 hot tubs and as we left the bar/lounge area the big screen was being pulled down to show Australia V NZ cricket.  We are in the confusingly named village of National Park with superb alpine views blue sky and hot sun.

So we are on carbs loading tonight before a 6:15am breakfast and transport to the start.  As it is a one way walk the transport collects you at the other end as well.  Thus is is an early night (Kivin is kipping in the car) as we prepare to follow in the footsteps of Frodo.....

If two old farts survive then there will be a tired update tomorrow (or the next day if too knackered).  If not, look after Kevin.

"Let's have a day to recharge the batteries......"

We decided last night to have a day of leisure today - coffee in town then a meander to the Huka Falls after which we would saunter home, go for run, read on the beach, etc.  The first bit went to plan with a pleasant 1.5 km lake shore stroll into Taupo where we looked at the harbour, the shops, etc before having another coffee al fresco.  Goods are not cheap in New Zealand; we went into an outdoor shop and walking stuff was as expensive, if not more so, than UK.  The only difference was that you could also buy a gun!!!   Kiwis are keen on hunting and fishing  - the lake apparently has masses of trout waiting to be lured into the frying pan.

Now, there is an army phrase PPPPPPP - the seven P's.  I have quoted the mantra, "pathetically poor planning produces pathetically poor performance" to the boys often enough.  (actually the army may just use another word beginning with P than the one I've used).  Well, the map I was using showed the Huka Falls about twice the distance from motel to town, hence my assumption of a nice down river stroll carrying our delicious packed lunch.  The map had no scale but I thought the calculations were reasonable.  To cut a long story short we are now back in our motel having tramped 16km in the burning heat and are now rehydrating and applying after sun.  Our knees are a little sore and the idea of going for a run is out the window.

However, it was a good walk - after we were leeward of the town's sewage works.  The track followed the river bank then up over a cliff where there was a bungee jump - no one silly enough to do it.  We then descended through a park to where a hot spring joins the river and lots of folk were there just luxuriating.  However, we were on a mission and 45 minutes of fast undulating walking brought us to the falls.  Here the Waikato river is squeezed into a narrow gorge. Thus the bright blue water accelerates like Lewis Hamilton in an azure blue and white foam and a roar that can be heard a long way down the track.

We slavered more suntan cream on and hit the homeward trail.  It was comforting to meet a hot and sweaty couple from Northern England who had also fallen for the "not to scale" ploy but still had 3+ km to the falls and back then 8 km back to Taupo.  "Bloody Hell" was his summary of the cartographic accuracy of the 'around Taupo' map.  We stopped at the Bungee jumping as there was a little cafe with a fridge full of cold drinks AND we got to see two mad folk jump off!

After four mugs of tea with dunked ginger bickies and a shower it was .....  beer o'clock!  Cheers.

ps     today's photo shows the tragic effect that sun, dehydration and overexertion can have on an OF

Two Old Farts at a Geothermal Park in New Zealand

Yes it really was that yellow-green colour!

Did the earth move for you darling?

Thursday 2nd

A day of travelling, from Thames to Whakatane.  A good drive, stopping at Mount Maunganui Beach (#1 beach in NZ on trip advisor and in the world's top 25 beaches) for a beach side coffee shop with all the other hipsters and surfing dudes.  Well there was the odd pensioner there as well.  Caffeined up we continued to Whakatane to book up a trip to the active volcano named White Island for Friday. 

The afternoon was spent on the famous Ohope Beach voted NZ's best loved beach with safe swimming and surfing (we did neither).  In glorious sunny 'wither'' (25°) it was a picture - 11km of sand backed by Pohutukawa trees, expensive houses and little cafes, art shops, etc.  I tried the latter two.

We then found our latest, for one night only, motel ... the Livingston Motel (well it was a must, all but one 'e').  Anyway, we unpacked and sat down with a cuppa when the earth moved!!!?  A slight tremor was felt twice - a little worrying,  but no tea was spilt.

On the tectonic plate movement theme we had some disappointing news this morning when paying our hotel bill.  OF1 asked about the siren and apparently it was not the tsunami siren being tested but the siren to call all the volunteer firefighters to the station for a "shout".  Still it was a good story at the time....

In the local shop we had our next lesson on "teach yourself New Zealand" when OF1 was completely flummoxed by the cashier who asked her about quiche.  We had a small spinach and feta quiche in the shopping bag but it took an OF1 query to ascertain that she was asking, "card or quiche?".

Friday

Gross disappointment.  At 8am we had a phone call and "Imma sid the wither" (that's:  Emma said the weather) was not to the captain's taste and the trip to the volcano was cancelled.  For the first time in NZ it was raining (a little) but also windy.  With 45km of sea to cross and use inflatables to land it was too dangerous to try.  Were we downhearted?  Why, .......... yes.  Absolutely fed up but as one door closes another opens.  OF1 has promised me a trip to Sicily - we saw a great agro-tourism place from which one can see the glow of Etna. Next holiday sorted.

We set off for Rotorua and arrived at coffee time.  We were on our final descent to the centre when we noticed a dreadful smell and smoke to our left.  We stopped and found that this was Kuirau Park.  It is a public
park where you can wander amongst boiling mud pools, steam vents, hot water pools, etc.  It was quite amazing (and smelly) as each thermal attraction only had a small fence around it and the public were free to roam, picnic, etc.  By coffee the sun was out and rising quickly back up to 28°C today as the cloud and rain moved northwards.  We scooted around the centre looking in craft shops and buying lunch in a local bakery.  We went down to the lake to munch our sarnies (well I put my hand up to an award winning steak & cheese pie) and watched a seaplane ("float plane" here) take off.

The afternoon turned out to be pretty special.  We went to Wai-O-Tapu  Thermal Wonderland which sounds pretty naff and something to run far away from BUT it is highly rated on good old Trip Advisor and it deserves the plaudits.  The park is beautifully kept and well laid out in a series of loops.  We did the lot at some 3km but there were a myriad of photo opportunities and information to be read.  We saw a whole range of geo-thermal features.  These included, craters, mud pools, sinter terraces, sulphur caves, geyser (but not erupting) and caves.  These were all fascinating but the colours of the minerals that are deposited in rings around the pools and colour the water were simply stunning.  There were yellows, greens, reds and whites all of which we saw through swirling clouds of sulphurous steam.  It was a real awe and wonder afternoon.

All this geothermal stuff is not just at the thermal parks but alongside the road there is the odd bit of steam rising or signpost to "mud pool".  We also drove past a thermal power station.

We recovered with a delicious mango sorbet before heading on to our motel for the next two nights at Taupo.  We are at the Sails Motel which overlooks the lake (well our "unit" is back from the road and we have what estate agents would call 'lake glimpses').  This is another very good place and the unit even has a separate lounge and bedroom.  A quick sortie to the local Countdown (no Rachel Riley here - it's like Tesco) to stock up on a few local products (mainly beer and wine) for dinner and packed lunches. Lake Taupo is huge: 48km x 35km and has lots of walking routes, water activities, extreme sports, etc.

Writing this with a chilled glass of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc in my hand - sorry about the wet pages and blurry writing. 

Today's lesson in the speak New Zealand course was the answer to a problem we have been grappling with for a few days.  You will remember that early doors we sacked headmistress Jocye from our sat-nav and installed Kiwi Bin (spelt Ben).  When you reach your destination he tells us to, "grab your togs, jandels and chillixxxxx and get going.  Cheers for the ride mate". The last item we had to grab has been eluding us until tonight - it is "Chilly Bin" which translates as Cool Box.

We are aiming to be fluent by March....see you mate.

After a hard day....

There's gold in them there hills!!

Thames is an interesting place.  It was once the largest town in New Zealand as the quartz veins in the area contained gold.  In 1867, the first gold mine started (found by Cornish tin miners) and BOOM!  The town mushroomed to over 20,000  but ten years later the miners had moved on.  Thames now has a population of 17,000 but some of the over 100 hotels built during those golden years are still here (and still hotels) alongside other original buildings.  Still enough history and onto today..

The word for today is 'wither' but not as in "my geraniums withered in the heat' but as in 'the wither today has been sunny and 24°C' which it has.

We set off for a walk in the Kauaeranga Valley - a national park.  This is in the hills just outside Thames and a quick drive brought us to the end of the road as it turned into a gravel track.  Just 3km up was a very smart visitor centre and a ranger advised us to walk the Cookson and Wainora Kauri track.  This was a lovely walk, first alongside the river and then it struck off up the spur.  As this was a walking track it was well maintained with bridges over the streams and a gravel track.  It wound its way through 'the bush' which  in truth it looked more like tropical forest with liana-type vines, epiphytes and trees covered in moss.  There are ferns, not just as undergrowth but as giant tree ferns as well (plus all sizes in between).  Going up was a bit of a monster as it was steep but the rangers have put in steps, and more steps, and more steps, and even more steps!  If you had the breath as you climbed you could have sung 'stairway to heaven' many, many times.  That said, the forest and the views were excellent.  First stop was the giant Cookson Kauri tree which gave us photo opportunities​ and a breather.  All Kauri trees are protected as they were nearly all logged for ships' timber, mining or agricultural clearance.  At the beginning of the walk was disinfectant for your boots as the trees are now under threat from a die-back disease.  The track then turned into a tramping trail and it was marked by little orange arrows but not maintained.  This was even more fun and picture-worthy (see todays image of OF1 in forest glade mode) as we skipped over the tree roots.  We reached the Wainora Kauri trees and admired their straight, thick, trunks (ideal for masts, spars, pit props, etc.) which do not have branches until about 2/3 up.

We had our picnic at the top of the descent over looking Table Mountain - yes NZ has one as well.

With a quick tea stop back at the Tuscany we were off again but only to the other side of town for a visit to a gold mine.  This was a project that was started and run by volunteers who are developing an old gold mine (the hill behind the town is, apparently, like a Swiss cheese) and stamping battery.  Our guide (for only three, us two and a mad Lithuanian woman who took more photos than you have had hot dinners) was originally from Chichester but had spent many years in NZ so spoke more like a native.  We first donned hard hats and set off through some of the myriad of tunnels - amazing that they were all hand dug by desperate men trying to find their own pot of gold.  Lumps of quartz were extracted and sent to the stamping battery where steam driven giant iron hammers stamped the chunks into smaller bits until they were sand sized.  The gold (and silver plus copper) was then washed out through mercury (later this was substituted by cyanide,!!??).  Thus the life span of a miner was very short - blind from working underground, deaf through the giant stampers, and mad from the mercury.  Not to mention dead from silicosis or heavy metal and cyanide poisoning.  You can tell that our guide was excellent.

Back to the ranch where I had a swim whilst OF2 read by the pool. We then made ourselves beautiful for a night out on the town ...  well we went to "Gastronomic", a restaurant recommended by our hosts.  It was excellent.  I had mussel chowder followed by gurnard and OF1 started with shrimp cocktail and a main of pork.  All washed down with a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  Great meal as every bit of it was delicious.

Returned to base to find that I had only scored 17 points in the FFL - it's all going south......

Tomorrow we travel to Whakatane further along the north east coast.  We hope for a trip out to sea to visit an active volcano on Friday.  Next update after my hot date with White Island