Never in doubt

Sunday 19th February

Today in New Zealand started on real low when I opened my phone to find that Gillingham had lost to bottom place Coventry F C.  This was a real doom and gloom moment and the trap door is beckoning for the Gills unless they can reverse current form.

However, my miserable mood only lasted until I opened the curtains - a lovely sunny morning for the organised trip to Doubtful Sound.  We were picked up at The Croft by our bus driver, Justin, who was originally from London and had a trans-hemisphere twang.  He was the font of all knowledge on our two bus journeys.

After the multiple pick ups in Te Anau we sped (actually that is a lie as this was a rattling ancient bus) to the lake jetty at Manapouri.  Here we transferred to our boat, the 'Fiordland Flyer' which took us on the one hour journey across this alpine lake.  It was lovely sitting on the top deck of the boat in hot sunny weather surrounded by mountains after mountains.  The lake had lots of islands which are submerged rouche moutonee - all those years of teaching geography in the classroom and now here it was in the flesh (and not in soggy Snowdonia but see later..).

Off the boat and onto another bus.  This one was even more rickety than the last and Justin had to battle with a recalcitrant gear box which did not make being a passenger comforting.  To make matters more exciting we were traveling onwards over the Wilmot Pass.  This is the most expensive road in NZ (and not connected to any other road) built to ferry machinery from the sea up to the pass at 671m and down to the lake where the largest hydroelectric power station in NZ now resides but all underground (like Dinorwic).  The gravel road took two years to complete and the whole project claimed 16 lives.  The 22km is very steep (1:5 near the summit) and we graunched our way uphill in first gear then downhill in first gear.  The old bus belched, rattled and rolled through mossy forest that clings to the vertiginous rock on a thin covering of moss.  The drops off the road were pretty scary as well - best just to look at the view!

We reached the sea just as our boat was cruising up to the jetty.  OF1 joked that the driver should be called Justin Time - how we laughed!
Transfer number four and we were on Doubtful Sound - actually a Fiord.  The weather had changed as the moisture laden winds rise up the mountains they form clouds.  However, it was dry and considering that this area has over 200 rainy days and over seven metres of rainfall per year (that's 7000 mm compared with west Cornwall at 1000) we were doing well and it gave a mean and moody atmosphere to the cruise.

I could go on about the flooded U shaped valleys, waterfalls, hanging valleys, etc. but will resist as we also saw a variety of fauna.  Albatross, Molly Hawk, Fiordland Crested Penguin and dolphins were all espied.  The dolphins were swimming around us but didn't put on a display of leaping out of the water, etc.

I was a little concerned that a three hour cruise could have been low on the excitement factor but it was anything but as our skipper was a very laid back chappy who gave a superb commentary on the geology, landforms, flora, fauna and history.  One interesting thing we discovered was that the fiord has a layer of lighter, fresh water overlying the salt water and the wildlife has adapted to this unusual environment.  There were only 42 people on a boat that had plenty of space and a coffee machine! 

At the end of the cruise we reversed the journey - back on the bus to go over the Wilmot Pass, onto the boat to cross Lake Manapouri, onto the bus which deposited us outside the B & B.  It had been an exhausting nine hours sitting on buses and boats!

We had delicious fish and chips from the chippy in town to end the day. Tomorrow we are planning a quiet day - coffee, strolling around the lake, painting and sipping local beers are all on the menu!

PS. It's called Doubtful Sound because Captain Cook noted that it was doubtful if it was suitable for a mooring.

Oh what a beautiful morning (and afternoon)

I had a bit of a shock when I woke up this morning - there was a strange woman in bed with me!!!!!  She was similar to OF1 but had a massive top lip - botox or a mosquito bite?  However the view out of the window was better - a layer of mist clung to the valley in the distance.

We are staying in a B & B so off we toddled to breakfast and met the owners and the Danes in the other cottage hidden away in the garden.  They were great walkers and we chatted about 'tramping' as well as Brexit, price of cars/houses/dairy products, etc. with them and our hosts over a yummy brekky.  

Full of vigour and food we set forth to the west.  This was a road trip to beat yesterday and a walk up a small peak en route.  In glorious weather (or wither in kiwi) we drove to Milford Sound but stopping frequently to take pictures of Lake Gunn, the mountains, etc.  The road is a bit of a grockle highway but there was only the sporadic coach or cimper van.  The views of the The Anau Downs, the lakes and then the mountains were many moments of awe and wonder (to fulfil our SMCS requirement for travelling by Ofsted).  There is a 1.4 km tunnel which is single track but someone clever had worked out that traffic lights were better than being forced to reverse for 0.7km (they had obviously seen my reversing!).  There is an electronic board which counts down to when the lights are going green - 4:30 minutes on the way there.

At Milford we had a stroll along the shore path, a coffee then a swift ascent of the lookout.  There were great views of the almost sheer, glaciated walls dropping into the dark water with snow covered peaks and fluffy white clouds.  Mitre Peak looked imposing and just like....A mitre.

We set off back and stopped for lunch at a quiet spot looking at the alpine scenery.  It was a geography teacher's paradise with U shaped valleys, truncated spurs, hanging valleys, moraines, drumlins, terraces, et al.  Private A Level lessons are available......

We stopped at a heaving car park and just found a spot for Tanya the Toyota.  This was the start of the Routeburn Track which we followed uphill for about 3km in forest of ever decreasing height.  We then branched off to scale Key Summit (919m) which zigzaged steeply for another kilometre up alpine meadow to the top where photos were taken - see below.

We reversed the route at pace and returned to base to scrub the sweat, sun block and insect repellent off and we are now off to find a little bistro...

What a Road Trip!

Friday 17th February

A glorious sunny, warm (26°C), day and just a drive from Fox Glacier to The Anau ....... but what a wonderful drive. 

The first section was quick as we travelled through misty forest followed by a few kilometers along the sea shore before turning inland .  Here Highway 6 kicked into gear with beautiful views of both Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea - the water a stunning blue with steep hills rising out of the water.  All the way through this area we were crossing broad, braided rivers on very narrow, single track suspension bridges.  It was a cornucopia of glacial outwash features and moraines.

We then drove over the highest tarmac road in NZ - the Crown Range - again the views of valleys and mountains were superdoopa.  I was asked by two cyclists to take a picture of them both to record the epic ascent.  They spoke broad northern (sorry Dr C, not a scoobee if they were red or white rose) but they are on a round the world bike trip.  They have 6 more weeks in NZ  then fly to USA to cycle across it (as one does) then to Lisbon and cycle home! In kiwi tongue, "awesome".

The final stretch of our 7 hour trip was across farm land to Te Anau.  We actually saw quite a few sheep today as, despite the jokes, their numbers have halved in recent years to be replaced with cattle.  The farming is different here with the animals grazing in high stock densities in small fields, they are then moved to the next field.  It looks odd to us seeing all these fields with the stock crammed into just the occasional one.  There are also alpaca and venison farms.

Te Anau is a lovely lake side, small, town and gateway to the Fiords (no 'j' here).  Our accommodation is vying for top place.  We are in our own one bed cottage in the garden of the B&B owners with views over the lake.  It is a small slice of Utopia...

OF1 having a dunk

The snow capped Southern Alps

Friday 16th February

We woke up to blue skies and sunshine.  OF1 was especially bright eyed and bushy tailed and dragged me kicking and screaming out of a nice warm bed to 'go and see the view'. 

We drove out of the township to a view point just 10km away and the panorama of the snow capped Southern Alps was worth it.  It was a little unfortunate in that we are in the west of the country so we were looking into the rising sun.  However, the early morning sun was lovely but it did see my lightweight down jacket in action for the first time with the temperature about 8°C.  OF1s cunning plan continued with breakfast at Lake Matheson which had sensational views of the mountains which looked even better whilst tucking into eggs on toast with beans and hash browns, all washed down with a coffee.  OF1 was very abstemious and just had the coffee.

We then enjoyed the 4.5km walk around the lake which had viewpoints such as 'lookout', 'jetty view', 'reflection point' and, my favourite, 'view of views'. We both took masses of images, trying for that iconic picture of snow covered mountains reflected in the lake - it's in the can.  The walk passed through podocarp forest so there was dappled shade, mossy banks, ferns and lakeside plants.  It was extremely worthwhile and the path ended back at the café!   We have decided to revisit the café this evening (it becomes an award winning restaurant for dinner) and, hopefully, watch the sunset.

This afternoon, I stayed at the ranch painting and writing whilst OF1 was off again.  She walked up the valley to the snout of the Fox Glacier and returned bubbling with enthusiasm for all things glacial (L1 better watch out for his job!!).  It is relaxing sitting outside in the sun in the mountains.

Back to the painting.  Vincent van G.

It's good to be alive

Tuesday 14 February

A day of travelling with scenic stops.

We left our lovely accommodation in Marahau in the dry but we quickly ran into showers with colourful rainbows (photo stop 1) then persistent rain. A wet coffee stop (NZ is full of great little cafés, some of which roast their own coffee beans) and OF1 took her turn at the wheel. The next two hours were packed with adventure and near death experiences! It didn't start well when she decided to pull out to overtake a slow camper van only to find the biggest lorry you have ever seen and travelling at considerable pace right in front of us. OF1 managed to dive back in and the lorry driver acknowledged her driving skills with a single finger (world's #1 best driver???).

We then hit the coast road with large rollers crashing against the rocks and sending the spray over the road. Again, there were a number of superb photo stops (#2 to #6) with a Lewis Hamilton get away from one - wheels spinning, gravel flying and we were off in a cloud of dust!!  At the last beautiful spot OF1 reversed out of our parking place and somehow failed to spot the large lime green camper van behind. The alternative version is that it was observed and the fact we missed it by inches just demonstrates her expert driving prowess. Hmm...

We stopped for lunch at Paparoa National Park where near Punakaiki there are Pancake Rocks. We ate lunch in rain (well to be strictly accurate, in the car) but then the sky cleared and the sun put his hat on - so did we. Pancake Rocks are a set of spectacular caverns, stacks, arches and blow holes. The sea roared in and the water flew out of the blow holes and up the walls of the caverns. It was a dramatic display put on by dear old mother nature with spray, rainbows and cauldrons of foaming water. As you would imagine the picture-taking-frenzy hit new heights with me using the motor drive on my camera to record the spray reaching up for the sky.

It was my turn behind the wheel and I managed to make it to Hokitika without risking life and limb. In NZ there are many single track bridges with one way having priority. We had to drive on one that shared the narrow bridge with both ways and the train track! I am sure that you would not dispute priorities with a train. It seemed very strange driving down a railway track.

Hokitika is a lovely little sea side town. Like most of NZ it is mostly one storey with very wide streets. It is home to jade, gold and coffee shops plus all the local shops and theatre/cinema. It has an interesting beach of grey sand and flat stones but with piles of driftwood. There is a tradition of making giant sculptures out of the wood; we saw horses and abstract creations. Our accommodation proved the addage of you get what you pay for ...... this was the cheapest of the trip. Still it was clean and the shower hot and wet just very, very bijou and very spartan.

After dark we walked up Glow Worm Dell which lived up to it's name

Wednesday 15th February

We spent the first part of the morning in Hokitika grazing the art and craft shops. I also visited the National Kiwi Centre which turned out to be a local aquarium with two kiwis. Still there was some interesting stuff and then all the customers were invited to feed the giant eels. So the three of us proceeded to a platform above the giant tank to feed these enormous eels, some of which were about 5 foot long (a few were over 100 years old as well). We dangled bits of fish/worm over the water and the eels would rise up and open their mouths, grab the food and suck it in! It was better than it sounds. I was excited about photographing real live kiwis (don't tell Kevin) but made a school boy error - they are shy, nocturnal birds. The good news is that I saw two real kiwis up close and what a bird!  They are the size of a small chicken, large rear end and great long beak. A cross between a hedgehog with feathers and an ant eater. The bad news was, of course, it was pretty dark in the enclosure and photography was banned (the noise as much as the possibility of flash), so no photos.

After a coffee we strolled around the craft shops and did make the odd purchase. We have one that comes in a giant pizza box (should be fun on the aircraft only 5 more flights!) but you will have to see it in situ at #7 to see it in its full glory. OF1 loved thejade and is sporting a couple of lumps suspended from her ears.

We then set sail in our trusty Toyota (not quite so white as it was in Auckland) for Hokitika Gorge, about 30km away. This is a picture postcard view of a suspension bridge over bright blue water. It was very impressive but recent rains in these parts made the water a blue grey
rather than the postcard colour. I was bitten to blazes by the sandflies so lunch was taken cowering in the car.

This afternoon we drove further south to the township of Fox Glacier and are now safely ensconced in our best motel-type room yet The 'unit' has a mezzanine bedroom with a view of the mountains and downstairs a good kitchenette, leather sofa, etc. Fox Glacier is a collection of hotels, motels, hostels, restaurants and places offering helicopter rides up to the glacier. Oh, there is a grocery shop and garage to complete the line up.

The NZ Alps have been shrouded in cloud today BUT the weather is set fair for tomorrow and we plan to do a short walk and go to the best view points. There is one of snow capped mountains reflected in a lake but we need perfect weather and no wind (that‘s the Beaufort scale not us personally) for that shot!

At the end of a two day walk.....