Monday, 30 January 2017

In hot water and other places

I'm in hot water.  But more of that later..

Yesterday (Monday) was a travelling day and all went very smoothly.  We left Paihia having only broken one wine glass (OF1) and drove back south through Auckland to Thames at the base of the Coromondal peninsula.  We were lucky as the traffic going back north to Auckland from the Coromondal was nose to tail as it was the end of a bank holiday.  The 'Tuscany on Thames Motel' is just like those you see in the american movies.  The Tuscany bit comes from the reception building which is supposed to be Italian - needs a vivid imagination!  Then a row of motel rooms - just like Psycho…..  Still the room is enormous, it has a double spa bath, sofa, sky TV, swimming pool and stove hob (hurrah we can cook!).  It is also spotless and the kitchen implements are neatly arranged in a drawer - L2 would approve, OF2 does!  The only downside is that it is on the state highway and opposite the Toyota distribution centre (not the seaview we had at our last place).  However, it is quiet at night.

Today (Tuesday) was a 26°C scorcher.  I treated myself to iggs today (this is part of my 'teach yourself New Zealand' course). I had iggs and bacon - delicious.  Anyway, after my bacon omelette I was happily sitting on the toilet when the tsunami siren went off in Thames. My first thought was, "did I cause it?", my second, " but it was only chicken last night" and then my final thought with my trousers around my ankles was, "help!"  However, it must have been a test as it ceased as I was trying to decide what valuable item to take with me (OF1 or my camera?) and we did not see the local population flee for the hills.

Our first destination was Hahei, about 1 hour along some very hilly and windy roads - great views.  OF1 beautifully summarised Hahei as the perfect beach resort.  Lovely clapperboard houses, a small row of shops, bars and eating places and the perfect, tropical beach with a fantastic green-blue sea with the gentle roar of white-capped waves washing in.  After a coffee (NZ is proving a coffee enthusiast's heaven as well) we opted for the park and ride to the top of the cliffs and the start of our walk.  A bus from about 1960 arrived, driven by a member of ZZ top who set off like Lewis Hamilton.  A tad worrying all round but he got us there.  The clifftop walk was about 40 minutes with superb views before arriving at Cathedral Cove which has a classic coastal arch that you can walk through (except at high tide).  I started to give OF1 a quick coastal geomorphology lesson but......   Again this was a picture postcard beach and a great lunch stop.  We took a lot of photos and realised that there is going to be months of image sorting to be done on our return.

We walked back and took the steep uphill last kilometre at pace so we could treat ourselves to a boysenbeery (or in English - boysenberry) icecream - what is a boysenberry?*

Our next destination was another one of those wildly named NZ towns: Hot Water Beach.  So named because the beach has hot water...  We hired a spade for $5 and set off up yet another lovely beach to a throng of folk who, from a distance, looked like they were attending a revival meeting.  As we got closer we could see some digging and others lying in the dug depressions which were filled with water.  There seemed to be smoke over the area.  In certain areas if you dug a hole, hot water filled it - just like that!  After a cold water attempt, we procured a first rate hole as a  nice German couple left (they took their towels with them) which had two hot springs in it.  It was very weird lying in a hot bath on the beach!  However, it was all very matey and everyone was chatting and taking pictures of themselves plus asking for group shots -  we flung ourselves into the fun.  In some areas there were notices warning you not to dig as the water heated by volcanic activity underground was too hot - in fact it was too hot to walk on the sand - as many folk who read and pooh poohed the notice quickly found out and did the high-stepping quick exit dance - it was a hoot to lie there and watch.  We have images of both of us in a hot water hole although I do resemble a great white whale.  OF1 is a little pink on return to Tuscany and both of us plastered with sand.

On the way home in the steep twisty section of road we noticed a dust cloud rise up in front of us.  A few seconds later we saw a lorry upside down about 10m beneath the road surface in the bush.  We had been about 20-30 seconds behind the incident.  A couple of cars and lorries had already stopped so we moved on.  We felt a little bit guilty but figured that we brought no expertise to the party and there were already enough people helping and phoning.  A grim reminder that all roads need to be treated with caution.

Now back chez Tuscany with a juicy NZ steak for supper.  Looking forward to it as to date we have seen field upon field of cattle.

Tomorrow looks another good day so we are planning a forest tramp (as they are called in NZ) in the nearby Kauaeranga Valley..


Image from Cathedral Bay as one of two OFs in a hot water hole could be upsetting to children young and old (and we did not take our phone with us!).

*Cross between a European Raspberry (Rubus idaeus), a Common Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus), an American Dewberry (Rubus aboriginum) and a Loganberry (Rubus × loganobaccus)

Saturday, 28 January 2017

A bay with 144 islands

A day of highs and a low moment for OF2.

Last night's BBQ turned into a disaster as I could not light the superdoopa machine.  If you failed it shut down for 5 minutes - 55 minutes later I admitted defeat as the pilot light came on for a second then faded.  OF1 was not happy with my technique and made lots of well thought through ideas (eg "have you turned on the gas?").  I was a little tetchy and eventually our lovely lamb was put in the microwave with.........awful results.  The hot water then ceased and OF1 accused me of wrecking that by continually trying to light the BBQ.  Not a laugh a minute evening but we remained calm(ish).  No hot water in the morning either....perhaps I did wreck it.

Today (Sunday) was a a ripsnorter.  We were on the quay for a 9am kickoff on our Bay of Islands Discovery.  The sun shone from a blue sky, complete with fluffy white clouds, and an azure, calm, sea.  We motored up through a selection of the 144 islands in the Bay of Islands (good name!).  Captain Gary was great fun ("you can tell where the toilets are, they have the word toilets on the door" was a typical piece of kiwi banter.  He was also a mine of information on history, biology and geology of the islands.  Suddenly we veered out to sea to go whale watching (Gary was only hoping for dolphins so this was an upgrade).  The large Bryce's Whale (pronounced 'brooders') was blowing every minute or so but not in a straight line so it was difficult to photograph but I do have some lovely images of splashes.  It was a memorable experience; Free Willie brought to life.

We then sailed through 'The hole in the rock' which was fun and to the island of Urupukapuka and the beach of Oneura (which you all know translates to Paradise Beach).  The next event on Paradise Beach was a bit like Death in Paradise and I was nearly the cadaver.  The tour folk ("Explore") had prepared a BBQ - they could light theirs - which was delicious.  I filled my plate and OF1 and I were returning to our shady seats (or seats in the shade) when I tripped over a small step.  It was like one of those films when the action goes into slow motion.  As 16 stone of me started for the ground a chicken leg, a sausage, a steak and three types of salad became airborne.  I eschewed possible life threatening injuries in order to catch most of my meal but only hurt my knees and wrist; however, most damage was sustained by my ego.  Disappointingly, there were no grazes, no fractures and no concussion.  In fact OF1 and a nice young man picked me up as I lay there poleaxed but trying to put the 5 second rule into practice to rescue the errant sausage..... lunch continued.  To her great credit OF1 didn't laugh until we sat down again.

In the afternoon we walked the local well marked tramping routes, climbing the hill to gaze down on idyllic coves.  We returned to our beach and both went swimming in the clear water - it was very chilly but refreshing.  A bit of a first, me going swimming but anything a whale can do......

Back on the boat we returned via the quaint town of Russell.  This was the old capital of New Zealand and at one time was nicknamed The Hell Hole because of the killings, brothels, drinking etc.  The British were summoned to sort it out, which they did.  It is now a tourist and retirement town which is lovely. We sat on the beach eating white chocolate & raspberry and hokey pokey ice creams in the late afternoon sun.

There is a ten minute ferry across the bay to return to our current base in Paihia.  We had just sat down when there was an enormous 'cruuump' behind us - a mother carrying a tiny baby had tripped over the step (seems like a theme).  I was on my feet like a modern day knight in white shining armour, picked up the baby and handed him/her over to Dad whilst other passengers helped Mum groggily to her feet.

We finished the day with a walk back to the apartment along a track that goes along the shore but covers the rocky bit at high tide - fantastic.  We got home to find cold water again so OF1 called the owner who came over and discovered that the gas had run out and changed cylinders. I feel exonerated of the unfair slur that it was all my fault.

Great news came via WhatsApp that Alex had successfully completed the Kolkata Marathon (3-21) and a quick congratulatory internet call confirmed he was tired but very chipper.  He has raised a substantial sum for Future Hope well done!

Tomorrow will be uneventful (thus no blog) as we drive from the Bay of Islands to the Coromondal - we put all our faith in Bin.......

Friday, 27 January 2017

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

Just a spit away from chez OFs is the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and it was today's treat.  This is where the historic treaty was signed in 1840 between the Maori tribes and the British.

We started in a very well laid out museum which gave plenty of background before we met our mouldy guide (seriously that is how he pronounced Maori).  Anyway this chap (built like an all black prop) was a delight - full of information, wit and happiness.  He walked and talked for an hour on New Zealand history, natural history, Maori culture, etc.  We were instructed in canoes (waka), Maori meeting houses and signing the treaty.  The grounds are beautifully kept with walkways through a mangrove forest and native bush including valuable Kauri trees.  Of whimsical note is that the first British Resident (appointed by the King) brought his own house with him - flat packed from Australia (our guide mused whether the Allen keys were included!).

At the end of the tour we were treated to cultural show in the Maori meeting house which included dancing, singing and the haka.  All good fun, photogenic and instructive.  I now know why the tongue is stuck out during a haka*

Lunch was taken in the gardens being pestered by ducks who just sat at your feet like labradors (except no fur, etc.) looking up at you for food.  One duck was prone to stroking my leg with her beak to remind me she was still waiting.  OF1 was mightily unimpressed.

Later in the afternoon we visited Keri Keri where one of the earliest mission stations still survives.  A bit Northern Premier after the mornings star turn but very pretty.  I also had a hokey pokey which you lick rather than put your left leg in.  It is vanilla and honeycomb icecream.

I am please to announce that Jocye has been sacked.  Our headmistress on the sat-nav has been replaced by Bin.  He may be spelt Ben and have a speech problem but he at least tells you to put on your jangles and go out an enjoy yourself when you reach your destination.

Back to the hovel by the sea to write blogs, WhatsApps and postcards on the balcony before firing up the BBQ and having lamb chops. The weather has been 24, blue skies, sunny with a pleasant light breeze and more of the same is promised tomorrow when we are on an Island hopping adventure.

*the sharp end of the Maori fighting stick (a taiaha) is called the areso which translates to  tongue and is the stabbing end!

Bay of Islands: One

Friday
We left the Ramada this morning.  It was a good location and a clean studio apartment.  However, the view was the wall of the next door block and we could hear the city traffic and air conditioning units.

This is in stark contrast to the view over the Bay of Islands I am presently looking over with the sounds of exotic birds, insects and other fauna.  The flora is wonderful semi-tropical plants, some of which I have struggled to grow in the greenhouse or conservatory - Datura for one.  The roadside is covered in giant agapanthus plants in their full blue and white glory.  The ferns are giant (like the all blacks I suppose) and it seems everything is extra large sized.  Anyway back to the story...

We collected our hire car which is a very new white Toyota Corolla (Auris in the UK) which is just the right size for a couple of OFs and their luggage.  It is a joy that NZ drives on the left so it is not too difficult.  We navigated out of central Auckland with only one navigational error and no falling outs.  It was motorway for a few miles then single carriageway with passing lanes every few miles, mainly up hills.  For some bizarre reason Joyce (our new satnav - so called as she sounds like Joyce Grenville at her headmistress best and someone you don't mess with!  "Turn around NOW". Is not an option...) directed us off the main road and took us through some lovely farmland with more bends than Donald Trump promises.  We arrived back on the main road a few miles further up but having added 15 minutes to the journey...  As a result, Joyce is now on the naughty step and we are now wary of her 'good ideas'.  Although there is generally not a large amount of traffic, it takes longer than you might imagine because the roads are so wiggly.  So OF1 is starting to panic about the planned 360km one day when we are in South Island - could be a marathon 🚗🕒👎

We had been looking for a lunch stop cafe when one was signposted off the road.  Well, it looked a bit of a shambles and a little wild-west like.  However, the lady IC was superb and produced an extra large bowl of freshly cooked spicy potato wedges with cheese and sour cream.  We ordered one between two and still failed to cross the finishing line.  The locals were very friendly and gave us plenty of 'must sees'.

Bay of Islands: Two

Friday part two

We arrived in Paihia mid afternoon after a scenic drive; it sits on a beautiful bay with views out onto the Bay of Islands.  It is rather like a small, French, Mediterranean seaside town - classy rather than kiss me quick.   We shopped for basics - wine, beer, etc. as the next place, like most we have booked, have mini kitchens (toaster and microwave in this one) and tried to find our accommodation.  This proved a disaster area as we could find the little road above Paihai but not the house.  We rang the owner but his instructions sent us down the most scary, vertiginous road I have ever seen (forget Hard Knott Pass or that place in the Wye Valley that L4 could not drive up - this was seriously steep).  We found his house but not ours and he was not in.  Grumpy and fed up we returned to town (only about 1.5km away) for tea in shore cafe/bar.  This went one step beyond the slouchy leather sofas - beds!!!  see picture.  It wasn't cold but if it was there are blankets.....

Two hours after attempt one we gained access to "seashells", our very luxurious appartment. 

We are now planning the next two days....

Wednesday, 25 January 2017

Auckland at last

Tuesday was spent travelling - taxi, plane and bus - from Singapore to Auckland.  We were lucky to have been allocated seats near an exit so we had oodles of leg room. Flight uneventful but customs in Auckland was quite exciting. We queued for ages as all visitors luggage was searched.  As son #1 ( in age) had warned us it was our walking boots that were of interest and it was lucky that I had scrubbed them before travelling.  It seems that NZ has very strict biodiversity laws.  We then waited 35 minutes for the bus to take us to the hotel - we finally staggered in at 02.20am!!!

Wednesday

We woke at 7am (I was surprised too) and off at 9am with Steve and Sylvie to the port area of Auckland.  This has all been done up and is rather nice with lots of bars and restaurants lining the waterfront.  After stocking up for lunch we took the ferry to one of the many islands that are to be found in the bay. 

Rangitoto is an extinct volocano only about 600 years old.  The walk up its 260m crater is easy going and absolutely fascinating.  There is a wealth of flora on the island and some bare areas of pyroclastic flow that are yet to be colonised.  Luckily, Steve knew the names of all the trees and birds so it was like a walk with David Attenborough!  On the way up we explored the lava caves - I, of course, bumped my head on the very sharp rock which resulted in a small flesh wound.  At the top we were rewarded with superb views into the crater and for miles around - back towards Auckland and around the many islands.  We scooted down for lunch on the beach then a tramp back to the ferry along the shore track.

A quick shower and we were out (in pouring rain) to a restaurant overlooking the bay.  We were joined by Steve's son Chris (and partener Rachel) who is a probation officer.  A jolly good time was had by all and the food was delicious.  I had enormous green lip muscles in a delicious tomato and garlic sauce followed by a rack of lamb - nice and pink it just melted in the mouth.  OF1 stated with Halloumi followed by belly pork.

Thursday

Our central Auckland residence is a serviced apartment so we have been  using the washing machine and making our own toast  - the first time we haven't eaten out for breakfast

Today we had a real treat.  Steve took us out in his speed boat to the island of Waiheke which was about 40 minutes or so away (we were doing around 45kph for most of the time).  It was exhilerating and I was on the very wet side (drenched).  We had coffee in the semi-tropical beach resort of Oneroa before moving on to Palm Beach for lunch. Both of these involved wading ashore 10-20 m from the shore.  However, Steve took the boat back out and then swum to the shore!  The beaches were out of a travel magazine and many, many pictures were taken. 

After lunch OF1 and I had a walk up the cliff for a better picture which meant a stroll through the nudist beach!  Sylvie, who is fourteen, was disgusted and turned back for an ice cream.  I must admit that all the naturists of both genders were over 60 and she had a point but everyone to their own.  The short climb was well worth it and another 20 images were 'in the can'.  On the way down the very steep cliff there were lots of luxury houses - including one with a funicular up to the front door.

It was choppy on the return trip and we were bounced around as it zoomed up the waves and thumped in to the troughs.  Wet, salty, wind blasted we had a great expedition.  It is funny that however conscious you are about applying sun cream you always miss a bit.  My forehead was well protected but my thinning silver locks did not protect the top of my head and OF1 forgot her feet which have turned an interesting shade of pink.

After a scrub down we had dinner on the now trendy quayside of Auckland.  We both had foosh which is used as in the foosh and chips we both had (actually we had fries as chips are crisps) which we hope was hauled out the sea that day.  The other example of divided by the English language has been beery .......as in raspbeery or blackbeery.  I am sure I will ask for more translations during the next few weeks.

A super day and we were exhausted but happy.

Monday, 23 January 2017

Singapore

Well, I've done it! 

I have sipped a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar of the Raffles Hotel as the sun set over the yard arm.  It was a real Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn moment........Well OF1 may be a good Audrey but I don't cut the mustard.  I am also in Singapore not Casablanca but it the right era; "Play it again Sam".  However, the most expensive drink I have ever bought did not disappoint and we ate a great bag of peanuts to ensure we had the whole experience.  The idea of throwing the shells onto the floor to create that authentic ambience was great until I got up to leave and could not get any traction as they were like marbles on the polished tiles!!

We have thoroughly enjoyed our two day stop off here in this fascinating city.  Yesterday the two OFs were out of the airport bright eyed and bushy tailed despite significant sleep deprivation.  We dropped off the bags at our hotel and used the spotless underground to visit Marina Sands. We zoomed up to the 56th floor to the observation platform.  The marina bay hotel is built in the form of a ship on top of three skyscrapers (odd, perhaps, but very striking).  Most of the complex is a 2500 room top-of-the-range hotel, designer shopping mall, etc but the pointy end of the ship is a public observation platform (the rest is for the hotel residents including a restaurant and infinity pool).  There were great views over the city and port; many photos were taken. 

The extensive gardens (back on terra ferma now) were superb with the flora of different countries in each section.  In the middle are 'super trees' which are steel structures with plants growing up them - as featured on the last episode of Planet Earth.  There is a high level walkway between them. There are two massive ecosystem domes (a la Eden Project).  One is a flower dome which is self explanatory and had flowers from different biomes, such as desert, Mediterranean, etc.  However, the cloud forest one was the real gem. It is a 35m 'mountain' down which the world's biggest indoor waterfall flows and surrounded by great clouds of mist.  Lush planting reflects the change of ecosystems up a mountain.  However, the amazing thing is that you are whisked up to the top by lift then walk down via arial walkways to see the planting from afar (very scary for those of us (ie me) who are not keen on heights) and near. There are inside the mountain bits as well (not often you get elevators down a mountain!) to look out behind the waterfall.

In the evening we looked around Little India which has near our hotel.  It was like......well, a little piece of India!!  It had a real buzz with many locals and a few tourists.  We visited one of the original temples and had a meal in one of the recommended curry houses - delicious food eaten on banana leaves washed down with ice-cold Tiger beer.

We slept like logs for 12 hours then we were ready for the next round but we were slowed down by a thunderstorm outside! (you don't get many inside!!) . A leisurely brekky and we set off in anoraks (most locals opt for small umbrellas) to the highly rated National Museum.  This was excellent and the story of Singapore fascinating.  We enjoyed learning about the growth of the city - from Raffles to now.  I did not realise that Brexit is nothing new.  Singapore joined the Malaysian Federation briefly after independence but exited the organisation as it prevented Singapore being  a multicultural state.  Well not quite why some voted for Brexit but you can see a parallel.

The afternoon weather was dry and was spent wandering around the Colonial area and having a bumboat ride (as opposed to a bum boat ride) on the river which gave great views of the city.  After our Raffles experience we ended up eating al fresco on the river bank (under cover as the rain had returned) this time at a Tapas joint.  The fish and lamb were superb.  That concluded our Singapore experience and left us with things to do - the storm washed out our projected trip to the Botanical Gardens.

One small negative was discovered at the end of our stay.  I have my glasses case but mysteriously they do not contain any glasses.  They possibly fell out in transit or very probably they are at home.  OF1 is looking forward to driving 2.5k but where there is a problem there is an answer (I hope).  Afterall, I did pass the minibus driving eyesight test without my glasses a few weeks ago.

It is always difficult to sleep soundly as you lie in bed waiting for the alarm to get you up in time for an early morning taxi to the airport.  The problem was solved when my Mum's care home rang at 03.42 to ask if I could take her to a hospital appointment!!!  A few messages to sister Sue soon sorted the problem ("no") and I can only hope the updated contact information I gave the home before we left has now been actioned.

Pictures will follow when we have computer access as I did not take my phone on the trips - schoolboy error.

On to New Zealand...

Saturday, 21 January 2017

Lift Off

Well there's no going back....

We are in the air on an enormous Airbus and currently travelling at 580mph over Eastern Europe - only 6000 miles to go!.

OF1 decided to charge her phone early this morning and on the way to Heathrow realised that it was still charging!  We only hope that is the only thing we have left behind. 

I had an English breakfast at Heathrow to say goodbye to the home land.  OF1 went for a pre Brexit​ croissant as she is a true European (actually that's not true...... she just likes croissants).  When we return we may (well Teresa May may) have triggered Article 50 and Donald Trump may still be president.....  However, I will not be expecting Gillingham's inexorable slide into division two to have halted; pessimists are never disappointed.

Our Air Singapore plane is lovely with plenty of leg room (even for a big fat six footer like me!).  However, air travel does bring home our hierarchical society as the first class swan through the gate whilst mere mortals queue.  The lunch was delicious but the stamp 'economy' on the front made you wonder what the upper deck were having and put us firmly in our place.

After all the indiscision regarding whether to bring travel wash it turns out that packing it was inspired - I have spilt fish curry down my shirt. OF1 then excelled herself by not being able to get out of the plane toilet.  I could see the doors bulging to near breaking point as she shoved and shoved them.  I had to intervene to avoid a major breakage by telling her to pull not push.  Never a dull moment!

Writing this in flight connected to wi-fi is remarkable (as we fly over Bucharest) and the next update should be from Singapore.

Time for a kip as I dream about the mine hours or so that have disappeared as we travel eastward.  TTFN

OF2

Sunday, 15 January 2017

Nearly Ready for the Off - just days away...

Nearly ready for the off and so many things to think about!

It is not the "have we got the tickets?"  scenario  that is keeping me awake at night (that would be understandable) but rather the number of under pants, t-shirts and socks!  This is a difficult decision as it provokes a lot more questions - when will we be able to do any washing?  Do we take travel wash? How many 'just in case' undies do I take?  It is all too much.

As Old Fart Two (OF2) I am looking forward to packing my new suitcase with all my kit which is currently on the spare bed.  
Old Fart One (OF1) thinks that I have either done a deal with Rohan or spent all our savings!  All I can say is that Rohan has good sale deals.....   I have laid out the stuff on the bed and it might just be under 50kg!  So I have a few days to pare down the kit and be a little sensible.  I must realise that New Zealand has shops!

Still there are five days left to think about what I have not thought of yet, or, in Donald Rumsfelt speak, 'unknown unknowns' - they are the real scary ones!