Kiwi Korner

OF1 on the up

Great Scott!

Tuesday 28th  February

We have completed our last day of tramping in NZ (see I'm talking like a kiwi) and it was another goodun.  We decided to go up the Scott's Track towards Avalanche Summit.  The whole route climbs 1100m in just 2.5 kilometres so that is an average gradient of 1:2.5 or in layman's language, ****** steep!  Actually, it was a cracking walk through the beech forest up a waymarked path and we met very few people all day.  It was a steep, rocky path with bits of minor scrambling to ensure the gradient was unrelenting.  As you made altitude at a rate of knots so the vistas opened out (and the lungs and heart were in overdrive). First there were views of the valley below with our car just below us but looking like a toy then opposite were the magnificent Devil's Punchbowl Falls (geography note: falling from a hanging valley).  We started in mossy beech forest which had that wonderful mouldy  smell but with increasing altitude the trees became smaller and covered in a lacework of lichen with grasses and sedges.  The first objective was to break through the treeline which the lady who runs the motel told me had stupendous views - she was not wrong!  We could see for miles and miles (good song that one!) with deep U-shaped valleys and high mountains (another good song: river deep mountain high).  We continued up the ridge which was marked with poles as there were no trees and the lack of vegetation exposed the route up to the summit - a thin ridge walk.  I continued for a bit but my fear of heights kicked in (it seems to have become more acute recently) and I opted for a return.  OF1 was very kind as I sat down and said I wasn't sure if I could go any further up or down!  However, slowly down the ridge we went (I tried to just look at my feet) until we were back in the trees again - whew.  Lunch was enjoyed looking over the valley before we made our way back down thinking only insane people would walk up this thing! On that note it would be a great short run for L1 when he visits next month!!!! It was quite a relief to finish the knee jarring descent and regain the valley floor.

Not content with taking an album of pictures of the Devil's Punchbowl Falls from across the valley, we decided to walk up to the bottom of them.  '1km and 30 minutes' the board proclaimed.  We thought we could do one kilometre in less than half an hour but what the board didn't tell you was the hundreds of steps (up and down)  that were contained in just 1000m.  Somehow after our 700m descent our legs would not go up steps any more. OF1 found a nice spot to sit and look at the view whilst I was in the vanguard of the party and completed my 'walk to the falls' badge.  A very spectacular waterfall but it must be even better in spring or after heavy rain.

We were not finished and walked another couple of kms to the Bealey Gorge (yet more steps), 'Jack's Hut' - one of the original huts for those who kept a stretch of road open - and then the Wobbly Kea for a drink in their shady garden but still no kea sighted).  Then back to the ranch for a scrub down and rehydrate.

Another golden summer's day, in fact the NZ  autumn season starts tomorrow!  We are driving to Christchurch...

Just off to the Wobbly Kea for dinner  (we do like it but it is also the only place that serves evening meals in this tiny place and shuts at 8pm!) ......

Just spoken to the owner of our motel and discovered that the population of Arthur's Pass is a mere 30.

Castle Hill

Death's Corner

Monday 27th February

Reporting in from Arthur's Pass.  We are in a rather quaint motel on the outskirts of the small village.  Unlike the very sterile apartment in Tekapo this has some real character.  Firstly it is built in the traditional wood and corrugated iron roof style and secondly it is cozy. 

Yesterday we had a bit of a slob day.  We spent the morning in Tekapo drinking coffee and battling the super slow wi-fi.  However, it was nice sitting in the sun overlooking the turquoise lake.  In the afternoon we read and/or painted (the latter went very belly up) before stirring our bones for another visit to the Astro Café at the top of Mount John for yet more stunning views, tea and carrot cake.  The cake was delicious but more a carrot/Christmas pudding cake.  We then went into tourist overdrive and perused the tiny chapel - Church of the Good Shepherd - on the lake shore.  We cooked a salmon, chilli, penne dish and ate it watching the rugby, first Wales v Scotland then the Ireland and France match - we know how to live! (NZ TV is absolutely awful and this was one of the few times we had Sky TV, so we made the most of it).

Last night was a starry one (Tekapo is famous for its dark sky, hence the observatory) and the morning dawned chilly but cloudless and windless - a perfect day.  I know I keep going on about the travelling but yet again we were treated to an amazing drive today.  We lunched at Castle Hill and walked around the massive lumps of limestone which give a castellated look to the hill.  We then continued to a little beyond Arthur's Pass to the Otira Lookout and Death's Corner - you will be pleased to hear that we escaped with our lives and a couple of photos. 

We are now off to the Wobbly Kea for a pizza.  We are yet to meet the parrot like kea which apparently likes to take your belongings, food, etc.  We are also in kiwi country so Kivin is rather excited.......

Time for a cuppa

Stargazing

Sunday 26th February

Now at Lake Tekapo and horror upon horror there is no wi-fi in our holiday home!  Thus there may be a delay in blogging.

Actually there is not too much to relay as we recover from the exertions of the previous days.  We were feeling rather good about our latest walk only to receive a WhatsApp from L1 to say he had run up the 2200 steps and gone further up!!!  Not the way to keep on the right side of your parents!!!

Our last evening at Mount Cook was spent at 'The Old Mountaineer's Café' which served good grub (salmon for OF1 and steak for me) as we watched the mountains change from orange to pink as the sun set.  They could have served up gruel and charged a king's ransom for the view alone.

Next morning we packed up again and drove past a film set where Reece Witherspoon and Opra Winfrey are making 'a wrinkle in time'.  Go and watch it and if you see a white Toyota in the background - that's us!  Our first stop was Twizel - we went round a couple of times - to stock up on petrol and cash.  It has a small parade of shops which included three coffee shops and a general stores.  The latter was quite remarkable as it contained everything you could have thought of and a lot more that you would never think of.  I was grazing when I saw a shelf and a box with 'Carcassone' on it...... then two versions of 'Ticket to Ride' and then all the other board games that we recognised from the Loughborough emporium.  Jake's Stores was a goldmine and we bought a small game with a Hobbit theme - we are in Hobbit Land anyway.

We then meandered to Lake Tekapo which is a small touristy village but with lovely views of the mountains.  On our itinerary this is labeled 'r and r' so that is what we are planning.  After a picnic by the lake we drove to the top of Mount John which is a sizeable hill and home to the university observatory.  Amongst the telescope buildings there is the Astro Café which has the most stupendous views.  We supped our beverages and had great fun people watching - the Chinese tourists were great value as they take a picture every 10 seconds, then a selfie, then a silly selfie, then a video.  After they sit down there is another frenzy of photography as a million images of the coffee are taken.  Amazing.  However, we did catch a little of the bug.... see image below.

It was time to collect the keys to our holiday home which is not in our top three.  It is a newly built one bedroom semi but is soulless (all white, no pictures, etc.) and at the edge of a building site.  Still it is in walking distance of town and has good lake/mountain views. 

New Zealand TV is not great but this one had a basic sky box so we snuggled down and watched 'Allo Allo and then an ancient Prime Suspect. We would have gone for an early night except for the live band in the village with the bass turned up until gone 11.30pm!

Today we have made it as far as a coffee shop with wi-fi and caught up on the big news that Gillingham won yesterday!!  First time in 18 games I believe.  OF1 not so happy that the Welsh rugby team lost to Scotland for the first time in 10 years.

Planning on strolling in the sun, painting and general relaxing today.  TTFN

Two old mountaineers at the Old Mountaineers' Café

Stairway to Heaven

Friday 24th February

There's a lady who's sure all that glitters is gold
And she's buying a stairway to heaven.
When she gets there she knows, 

She will have fantastic views of the Mount Cook area!

Apologies to Led Zeppelin!

Yes, today we tackled the trek up the Mueller Hut track as far as Sealy Tarns which is known as the 'stairway to heaven'. This is a short walk that rises 1968 feet via a flatish started followed by an extremely steep ascent which includes 2200 steps.

Fuelled by eggy bread and bacon we set off.  This was a very dangerous thing to do - not the setting off but cooking the bacon.  There are notices in this large, lovely 'unit' about the cooking of 'odouriferous' foods and the fines payable if you leave a smelly room.  I think by opening all the doors and windows we got away with it!  I am almost embarrassed to keep repeating myself when it comes to the weather - blue skies, cloudless and hot sun again today.

The start of the walk lulls you into a false sense of confidence as you zoom across the valley floor looking up at a near vertical wall of vegetation and rock.  Then the steps start and the next 75 minutes was just unrelenting steps - all 2200 of them.  Many were not your normal house stairs but twice (at least) the riser height which soon turned the thighs throbbing and burning with lactic build up.  The pattern was about 20 foot of footpath then a flight of steps or steep rocks which zigzaged up the valley side, ie we were climbing up an old lateral moraine on the steep bit of a U-shaped valley.  The height gain was memorable and the views so good that stops to admire them were virtually compulsory!

We were moving up with group of four New Zealanders; a very bubbly group of ladies who were enjoying every minute.  They had left their families behind and this was a girl's day out. We have met some lovely folk on our walks.  I forgot to mention the older walker yesterday who had the word 'fossicker' on his shirt so we asked him what it meant (see yesterday's blog).  This was the name of his Rogaining Team which has taken part in the international Rogaining Championships the last few years.  Rogaining?  It's an ultra orienteer, usually your team (2-5 but have to stay in ear shot) has 24 hours to visit check points and gain as many points as possible.  More info: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogaining. He has been to America, Australia and Finland for the internationals and this year he is looking forward to Latvia.  I just cannot imagine walking/ running a 24 hour orienteer on a map covering 100 square miles - bonkers.  As we chatted it emerged that his mother in law lives near the New Forest (Hythe - 'not the posh side' when we mentioned my sister in Lymington!!) and comes to the UK quite a lot with walking in the Brecon Beacons planned for this summer.

Anyway, we continued up the steps with sweat dripping, lungs bursting and legs burning.  We kept overtaking the jolly kiwis when they stopped and then meeting up a few minutes later as we stopped for drink/photo.  This was a different set of walkers from yesterday which comprised tourists, mainly Chinese as we mainly met serious 'trampers' many of whom were German or French.  As we neared the top of the steps OF1 was 'not on form' and I was ahead with the water which did not help!  She also turned down an offer of water from two dishy Spanish lads as I disappeared over the ridge..

We reached the Sealey Tarns which turned out to be large ponds but with the most stupendous views and, bizzarly a picnic table.  There were a lot of pictures taken for each other - today's blog image was taken by the NZ girls on tour. We stayed to take in the view: the nearby Mueller Glacier, the Hooker Valley and Glacier, Lake Pukaki and the village, all overlooked by Mount Cook and all the other snow-capped mountains.  This really was the staircase to heaven!

Some other parties were going on (and very up) to the Mueller Hut but we had achieved our aim.  To go on would have been: 1 mission creep, 2 put us in water deficit mode and 3 knackering.  Thus we retraced our steps; OF1 still feeling light headed ("dazed and confused" on Led Zeppelin I?) and I was feeling my left knee (as usual).  2200 downhill steps sounds easy but they were just too steep to get zoom down so we skipped through the lovely alpine flowers including large daisies and foxgloves as we descended.

The afternoon has been a recharging one - food, beer, coffee, shower - and gawping at the views from our unit.  Thank goodness it didn't smell of that odouriferous bacon!

Next Led Zeppelin song?  "Ramble on" (Led Zeppelin II)

On a camper van......

Climb every mountain, ford every stream

Thursday 23rd February

Or you can walk up the path and use the three very impressive suspension bridges.  Being New Zealand they don't call them suspension bridges but swing bridges - a more apt name as the gentle swinging and bouncing motion as you walk high about the gorge did not inspire confidence in me (on the OF2 fearometer I was, 'worried').  Not to mention the signs that yell "6 persons ONLY".  This goes into the speak kiwi book where we can also add 'trundler park' (shopping trolley collection point) and 'fossicking' (gold prospecting).

We woke up to clear blue skies, yellow sunshine and white capped mountains - see picture below from our unit.  We donned our tramping togs and off we set.  Today we opted for a 3 hour walk up the Hooker Valley.  It was gentle in gradient but the environment was harsh.  Where's the glaciologist when you need one?  This walk was one ice formed feature after another - it was enough to give you a headache or should I say a moraine? 

The views all the way up were fantastic and as you came around the final terminal moraine there was the great reveal - the Hooker Lake with the Hooker Glacier falling into it and Mount Cook reflected in its steely grey, sediment-rich waters with ice bergs floating around it!  We found a quiet place to sit and enjoy this 'awesome' view and even heard a piece of ice cracking higher up the glacier. 

The peace was compromised by a party of school children arriving (about 9/10 years old) who were very well behaved.  It was interesting that it was two boys who were told off for throwing stones into the lake - nature or nurture???  Still, at that age I would have been one of those boys.

The return walk was equally good and we meandered back to the village for lunch.  This was special as we had it on a balcony with fantastic views of Mount Cook with Sir Edmund Hillary!  Okay, so it was his statue but it was still a magic spot - more awe and wonderment for the SMSC audit.  The Hermitage Hotel is the 'posh one' and it's towering presence dominates the single storey motels.  However, it is not significantly more expensive than other offerings which we found unusual.  It also contains the Edmund Hillary Centre which has lots of information and artifacts.  We spent a pleasant hour in the cinema there watching an excellent film about him which was 80% on his Everest Success.  Obviously, New Zealand is very proud of him - quite right too.

We have solved the food problem as the hotel had a mini store and the eateries are very appealing here.  We are now planning tomorrow's adventure whilst pinching ourselves about this incredible weather which  promises to be even better tomorrow.  So we are preparing the boots for another outing.......

It is always interesting (but only to those of an anal nature) which items you have bought with you were inspired and which were a waste of space.  In the latter fits the bobble hat, the gloves and too much cold weather stuff.  In the 'glad we bought them' category are, the string for hanging out the washing, the dirty washing bag (thanks S & J - it saves going through the suitcase sniffing clothes to find if they are clean or dirty) and the  mending kit.  The latter was the subject of major scoffing by OF1 but has come into its own by mending shorts and a cardigan.  So the next time you stay in a posh hotel, liberate that 'free' needle and thread set.

Pain in the Arse

And OF1's neck and my knee!  The 30km bike ride has been successfully completed and we are in recovery - vin rouge et bier seems the ideal combination of substance abuse.

Horror upon horror this morning.....,RAIN!!!!   We have been so used to travelling in our own hot sunshine bubble that we were totally discombobulated.  However, we reported to the pick up in plenty of time.  Well, that's my version, OF1 was not happy with my over enthusiasm and 20 minute wait.  Our driver was the fantastic Dan who drove us to the start via a few key points, set up the bikes and fully briefed us.  I only got upset when he told us (6 cyclists but we went at our own pace and two were on a different route) that maps were only squiggly lines!!!

In cloudy weather we set off from Lake Hawea with our super mountain bikes whizzing (no,  pottering would be a more accurate description).  The first half was around the lake then down the river on a good gravel path.  The colour of the water continues to amaze us - so blue.  At half way there was a little, local café to perk up the legs (and other sore bits) which not only served a damm fine coffee but also a first-class warm, homemade cheese scone.  There was a short, sharp rain event whilst we were quaffing our caffeine so we dragged it out until it had passed. 

The second half was down the Clutha River (it had cut through the glacial deposits to reveal a huge incredible bank - I have pictures for L1 to interpret) and then round the lake shore - this one was Lake Wanaka.  This was a great, but surprisingly undulating, ride with views of the water and the mountains which were slowly emerging as the sun began to shine.  With 2km to go OF1 bonked - the cyclists equivalent of a marathon runner hitting the wall - as her energy levels plummeted.  However, we made it to the wonderfully and accurately described, 'tree in the lake' for our packed lunch before returning the bikes.

Mid afternoon found us on the road again.  We left Wanaka and passed over the tussock grass moorland of the Lindis Pass which was spectacular.  We then drove to Twizel (and did a couple of U turns!) before driving up the valley to Mount Cook Village. The view improving with every kilometre

Our motel is very upmarket (thanks L1) and has amazing views of the snow covered mountains.  As it was late we dived into the next door place which is a sort of weatherspoons in a vague sort of way.  Still it was a rumbustious place full of young folk, beer and chips. The food was good and we found a table overlooking the mountains which finished with pink tops as the sun slowly set.  If clear, the dawn should be a jaffa.

We are now planning the next two days of walking as our sunny bubble seems to have returned.  There are, however, a couple of flies in our ointment.  We assumed that Mount Cook Village would be similar to Fox Glacier Township.  However, it seems to be just accommodation and no bank - we only have $40 cash (or quiche) - or food shop (very little in our reserves for breakfast or lunch).  Hmmm....,back to  PPPPPPP again....

My cup runneth over

Birthday Dishes

Keeping abreast of the news

Tuesday 21st February

Gidday readers (of which I detect are a dwindling number but I wouldn't read this drivel either!)

Last night we celebrated OF1's birthday in some style.  We booked into the Redcliffe in Te Anau which looks like a red corrugated iron shed. Inside it is cosy with lots of memorabilia on the walls - quite unlike most NZ restaurants to date.  It had been used by the Lord of the Rings cast and has the T-shirt to prove it!.  See the image below (sorry that the glass has caused a reflection) and you can make out Ian McKellen's signature.

For first course, OF1 had pulled pork fajitas with red and green salsa and I had hare croquettes with blue cheese aoili.  I enjoyed both but not together.  This prompted OF1 to ask the last time I had hare and I replied, "when I was 27"!! (For those of you struggling it is word play on hare and hair).  Main courses were lamb cutlets for the birthday girl and venison (medium-rare) for me - mine was not too deer!! (Sorry).  The accompanying vegetables were delicious and, interestingly, did not include potatoes. Mine was on a bed of mashed pumpkin, for example.  It was a great meal and the special occasion was truly marked in style.

We woke up this morning to an amazing sight out of the window.  The dawn light and clouds conspired to make the hay field a bright, fiery orange with dark mountains, rainbow and a pink clouds.  We were out in the communal dressing gown trying to get THE picture but the camaras could not quite capture the atmospheric view.

We had our last delicious breakfast with our hostess, Jane, and said a fond farewell to the blue cottage.  We fired up Tanya, programmed Bin and woke up Kivin - the team was off again! 'The open road", said toad..

Today we travelled from Te Anau to Wanaka - just a three hour drive retracing our steps of four days ago.  So it was up over the spectacular Crown Range and this time I have remembered to note that the road sides were a mass of lupins.

We stopped for a late coffee at the hamlet/village of Cardrona.  It was an old gold mining place and is now a small ski resort.  The hotel was built in 1885 and is regarded as very old in NZ.  It was a very quaint place for coffee with a log fire, hunting trophies (boar heads, etc.) on the wall (the answer is yes!  I did make the joke I always make, "it must have been travelling at a hell of a rate...."). There was a glass section in the floor in the middle of the bar room showing the shaft of an old gold mine.

Further down the road there is a fence festooned with bras for about 100m - there are hundreds and hundreds of them to support (sorry again) breast cancer charities.  It was a picture opportunity and a reminder to support the charity.

We arrived in Wanaka for lunch by the lake.  A stroll and a coffee in town before booking up bike hire tomorrow. The weather forecast is ok but not special so we opted not to go up into the mountains but be taken 30 km away in a mini-bus and dropped off with two bikes!  We should enjoy a leisurely, off road, ride through a valley then around Lake Wanaka.  The good news is that there is a café at half way. To warm up I have just completed a 30 minute run along the lake shore which was a step too far. However, I have found that a shower then cold beer have wonderful restorative powers.

Our motel unit is as clean as all of them with the best cooking facilities to date.  This includes, for the first time, a full cooker so we changed our plans and as I write this I can smell the joint of lamb roasting in the oven!  We then plan to hit the bars in town, about 2 minutes walk away.  Are we going to paint the town red?  No, just very pale pink then an early night before the Tour de Wanaka....

OF1 celebrates birthday down under !!!!!¡

Never in doubt

Sunday 19th February

Today in New Zealand started on real low when I opened my phone to find that Gillingham had lost to bottom place Coventry F C.  This was a real doom and gloom moment and the trap door is beckoning for the Gills unless they can reverse current form.

However, my miserable mood only lasted until I opened the curtains - a lovely sunny morning for the organised trip to Doubtful Sound.  We were picked up at The Croft by our bus driver, Justin, who was originally from London and had a trans-hemisphere twang.  He was the font of all knowledge on our two bus journeys.

After the multiple pick ups in Te Anau we sped (actually that is a lie as this was a rattling ancient bus) to the lake jetty at Manapouri.  Here we transferred to our boat, the 'Fiordland Flyer' which took us on the one hour journey across this alpine lake.  It was lovely sitting on the top deck of the boat in hot sunny weather surrounded by mountains after mountains.  The lake had lots of islands which are submerged rouche moutonee - all those years of teaching geography in the classroom and now here it was in the flesh (and not in soggy Snowdonia but see later..).

Off the boat and onto another bus.  This one was even more rickety than the last and Justin had to battle with a recalcitrant gear box which did not make being a passenger comforting.  To make matters more exciting we were traveling onwards over the Wilmot Pass.  This is the most expensive road in NZ (and not connected to any other road) built to ferry machinery from the sea up to the pass at 671m and down to the lake where the largest hydroelectric power station in NZ now resides but all underground (like Dinorwic).  The gravel road took two years to complete and the whole project claimed 16 lives.  The 22km is very steep (1:5 near the summit) and we graunched our way uphill in first gear then downhill in first gear.  The old bus belched, rattled and rolled through mossy forest that clings to the vertiginous rock on a thin covering of moss.  The drops off the road were pretty scary as well - best just to look at the view!

We reached the sea just as our boat was cruising up to the jetty.  OF1 joked that the driver should be called Justin Time - how we laughed!
Transfer number four and we were on Doubtful Sound - actually a Fiord.  The weather had changed as the moisture laden winds rise up the mountains they form clouds.  However, it was dry and considering that this area has over 200 rainy days and over seven metres of rainfall per year (that's 7000 mm compared with west Cornwall at 1000) we were doing well and it gave a mean and moody atmosphere to the cruise.

I could go on about the flooded U shaped valleys, waterfalls, hanging valleys, etc. but will resist as we also saw a variety of fauna.  Albatross, Molly Hawk, Fiordland Crested Penguin and dolphins were all espied.  The dolphins were swimming around us but didn't put on a display of leaping out of the water, etc.

I was a little concerned that a three hour cruise could have been low on the excitement factor but it was anything but as our skipper was a very laid back chappy who gave a superb commentary on the geology, landforms, flora, fauna and history.  One interesting thing we discovered was that the fiord has a layer of lighter, fresh water overlying the salt water and the wildlife has adapted to this unusual environment.  There were only 42 people on a boat that had plenty of space and a coffee machine! 

At the end of the cruise we reversed the journey - back on the bus to go over the Wilmot Pass, onto the boat to cross Lake Manapouri, onto the bus which deposited us outside the B & B.  It had been an exhausting nine hours sitting on buses and boats!

We had delicious fish and chips from the chippy in town to end the day. Tomorrow we are planning a quiet day - coffee, strolling around the lake, painting and sipping local beers are all on the menu!

PS. It's called Doubtful Sound because Captain Cook noted that it was doubtful if it was suitable for a mooring.

Oh what a beautiful morning (and afternoon)

I had a bit of a shock when I woke up this morning - there was a strange woman in bed with me!!!!!  She was similar to OF1 but had a massive top lip - botox or a mosquito bite?  However the view out of the window was better - a layer of mist clung to the valley in the distance.

We are staying in a B & B so off we toddled to breakfast and met the owners and the Danes in the other cottage hidden away in the garden.  They were great walkers and we chatted about 'tramping' as well as Brexit, price of cars/houses/dairy products, etc. with them and our hosts over a yummy brekky.  

Full of vigour and food we set forth to the west.  This was a road trip to beat yesterday and a walk up a small peak en route.  In glorious weather (or wither in kiwi) we drove to Milford Sound but stopping frequently to take pictures of Lake Gunn, the mountains, etc.  The road is a bit of a grockle highway but there was only the sporadic coach or cimper van.  The views of the The Anau Downs, the lakes and then the mountains were many moments of awe and wonder (to fulfil our SMCS requirement for travelling by Ofsted).  There is a 1.4 km tunnel which is single track but someone clever had worked out that traffic lights were better than being forced to reverse for 0.7km (they had obviously seen my reversing!).  There is an electronic board which counts down to when the lights are going green - 4:30 minutes on the way there.

At Milford we had a stroll along the shore path, a coffee then a swift ascent of the lookout.  There were great views of the almost sheer, glaciated walls dropping into the dark water with snow covered peaks and fluffy white clouds.  Mitre Peak looked imposing and just like....A mitre.

We set off back and stopped for lunch at a quiet spot looking at the alpine scenery.  It was a geography teacher's paradise with U shaped valleys, truncated spurs, hanging valleys, moraines, drumlins, terraces, et al.  Private A Level lessons are available......

We stopped at a heaving car park and just found a spot for Tanya the Toyota.  This was the start of the Routeburn Track which we followed uphill for about 3km in forest of ever decreasing height.  We then branched off to scale Key Summit (919m) which zigzaged steeply for another kilometre up alpine meadow to the top where photos were taken - see below.

We reversed the route at pace and returned to base to scrub the sweat, sun block and insect repellent off and we are now off to find a little bistro...

What a Road Trip!

Friday 17th February

A glorious sunny, warm (26°C), day and just a drive from Fox Glacier to The Anau ....... but what a wonderful drive. 

The first section was quick as we travelled through misty forest followed by a few kilometers along the sea shore before turning inland .  Here Highway 6 kicked into gear with beautiful views of both Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea - the water a stunning blue with steep hills rising out of the water.  All the way through this area we were crossing broad, braided rivers on very narrow, single track suspension bridges.  It was a cornucopia of glacial outwash features and moraines.

We then drove over the highest tarmac road in NZ - the Crown Range - again the views of valleys and mountains were superdoopa.  I was asked by two cyclists to take a picture of them both to record the epic ascent.  They spoke broad northern (sorry Dr C, not a scoobee if they were red or white rose) but they are on a round the world bike trip.  They have 6 more weeks in NZ  then fly to USA to cycle across it (as one does) then to Lisbon and cycle home! In kiwi tongue, "awesome".

The final stretch of our 7 hour trip was across farm land to Te Anau.  We actually saw quite a few sheep today as, despite the jokes, their numbers have halved in recent years to be replaced with cattle.  The farming is different here with the animals grazing in high stock densities in small fields, they are then moved to the next field.  It looks odd to us seeing all these fields with the stock crammed into just the occasional one.  There are also alpaca and venison farms.

Te Anau is a lovely lake side, small, town and gateway to the Fiords (no 'j' here).  Our accommodation is vying for top place.  We are in our own one bed cottage in the garden of the B&B owners with views over the lake.  It is a small slice of Utopia...

OF1 having a dunk

The snow capped Southern Alps

Friday 16th February

We woke up to blue skies and sunshine.  OF1 was especially bright eyed and bushy tailed and dragged me kicking and screaming out of a nice warm bed to 'go and see the view'. 

We drove out of the township to a view point just 10km away and the panorama of the snow capped Southern Alps was worth it.  It was a little unfortunate in that we are in the west of the country so we were looking into the rising sun.  However, the early morning sun was lovely but it did see my lightweight down jacket in action for the first time with the temperature about 8°C.  OF1s cunning plan continued with breakfast at Lake Matheson which had sensational views of the mountains which looked even better whilst tucking into eggs on toast with beans and hash browns, all washed down with a coffee.  OF1 was very abstemious and just had the coffee.

We then enjoyed the 4.5km walk around the lake which had viewpoints such as 'lookout', 'jetty view', 'reflection point' and, my favourite, 'view of views'. We both took masses of images, trying for that iconic picture of snow covered mountains reflected in the lake - it's in the can.  The walk passed through podocarp forest so there was dappled shade, mossy banks, ferns and lakeside plants.  It was extremely worthwhile and the path ended back at the café!   We have decided to revisit the café this evening (it becomes an award winning restaurant for dinner) and, hopefully, watch the sunset.

This afternoon, I stayed at the ranch painting and writing whilst OF1 was off again.  She walked up the valley to the snout of the Fox Glacier and returned bubbling with enthusiasm for all things glacial (L1 better watch out for his job!!).  It is relaxing sitting outside in the sun in the mountains.

Back to the painting.  Vincent van G.

It's good to be alive

Tuesday 14 February

A day of travelling with scenic stops.

We left our lovely accommodation in Marahau in the dry but we quickly ran into showers with colourful rainbows (photo stop 1) then persistent rain. A wet coffee stop (NZ is full of great little cafés, some of which roast their own coffee beans) and OF1 took her turn at the wheel. The next two hours were packed with adventure and near death experiences! It didn't start well when she decided to pull out to overtake a slow camper van only to find the biggest lorry you have ever seen and travelling at considerable pace right in front of us. OF1 managed to dive back in and the lorry driver acknowledged her driving skills with a single finger (world's #1 best driver???).

We then hit the coast road with large rollers crashing against the rocks and sending the spray over the road. Again, there were a number of superb photo stops (#2 to #6) with a Lewis Hamilton get away from one - wheels spinning, gravel flying and we were off in a cloud of dust!!  At the last beautiful spot OF1 reversed out of our parking place and somehow failed to spot the large lime green camper van behind. The alternative version is that it was observed and the fact we missed it by inches just demonstrates her expert driving prowess. Hmm...

We stopped for lunch at Paparoa National Park where near Punakaiki there are Pancake Rocks. We ate lunch in rain (well to be strictly accurate, in the car) but then the sky cleared and the sun put his hat on - so did we. Pancake Rocks are a set of spectacular caverns, stacks, arches and blow holes. The sea roared in and the water flew out of the blow holes and up the walls of the caverns. It was a dramatic display put on by dear old mother nature with spray, rainbows and cauldrons of foaming water. As you would imagine the picture-taking-frenzy hit new heights with me using the motor drive on my camera to record the spray reaching up for the sky.

It was my turn behind the wheel and I managed to make it to Hokitika without risking life and limb. In NZ there are many single track bridges with one way having priority. We had to drive on one that shared the narrow bridge with both ways and the train track! I am sure that you would not dispute priorities with a train. It seemed very strange driving down a railway track.

Hokitika is a lovely little sea side town. Like most of NZ it is mostly one storey with very wide streets. It is home to jade, gold and coffee shops plus all the local shops and theatre/cinema. It has an interesting beach of grey sand and flat stones but with piles of driftwood. There is a tradition of making giant sculptures out of the wood; we saw horses and abstract creations. Our accommodation proved the addage of you get what you pay for ...... this was the cheapest of the trip. Still it was clean and the shower hot and wet just very, very bijou and very spartan.

After dark we walked up Glow Worm Dell which lived up to it's name

Wednesday 15th February

We spent the first part of the morning in Hokitika grazing the art and craft shops. I also visited the National Kiwi Centre which turned out to be a local aquarium with two kiwis. Still there was some interesting stuff and then all the customers were invited to feed the giant eels. So the three of us proceeded to a platform above the giant tank to feed these enormous eels, some of which were about 5 foot long (a few were over 100 years old as well). We dangled bits of fish/worm over the water and the eels would rise up and open their mouths, grab the food and suck it in! It was better than it sounds. I was excited about photographing real live kiwis (don't tell Kevin) but made a school boy error - they are shy, nocturnal birds. The good news is that I saw two real kiwis up close and what a bird!  They are the size of a small chicken, large rear end and great long beak. A cross between a hedgehog with feathers and an ant eater. The bad news was, of course, it was pretty dark in the enclosure and photography was banned (the noise as much as the possibility of flash), so no photos.

After a coffee we strolled around the craft shops and did make the odd purchase. We have one that comes in a giant pizza box (should be fun on the aircraft only 5 more flights!) but you will have to see it in situ at #7 to see it in its full glory. OF1 loved thejade and is sporting a couple of lumps suspended from her ears.

We then set sail in our trusty Toyota (not quite so white as it was in Auckland) for Hokitika Gorge, about 30km away. This is a picture postcard view of a suspension bridge over bright blue water. It was very impressive but recent rains in these parts made the water a blue grey
rather than the postcard colour. I was bitten to blazes by the sandflies so lunch was taken cowering in the car.

This afternoon we drove further south to the township of Fox Glacier and are now safely ensconced in our best motel-type room yet The 'unit' has a mezzanine bedroom with a view of the mountains and downstairs a good kitchenette, leather sofa, etc. Fox Glacier is a collection of hotels, motels, hostels, restaurants and places offering helicopter rides up to the glacier. Oh, there is a grocery shop and garage to complete the line up.

The NZ Alps have been shrouded in cloud today BUT the weather is set fair for tomorrow and we plan to do a short walk and go to the best view points. There is one of snow capped mountains reflected in a lake but we need perfect weather and no wind (that‘s the Beaufort scale not us personally) for that shot!

At the end of a two day walk.....

The bug who came to tea!

Very possibly a Weta?

Life on the ocean wave.

Monday 13th February

Our two day hike has successfully been completed and we are sitting like........ two old farts really, complete with cup of tea.

Back to yesterday it started with us outside waiting for a minibus to pick us up at 7.30 am like two elderly school children.  A short drive to the boat company HQ, check in, meet up with Steve and Helen and we were ready to board. We were summoned to embark and we climbed into the 20 seater boat which was on a trailer linked to a tractor.  We then drove for about one kilometre along the beach front road and then the tractor reversed down the beach until we were in the sea!  There is no jetty and with a tidal range approaching 4m the tractors can sometimes go nearly a kilometre out to sea to drop off and pick up.

The water taxi took us for a mini tour of Split Apple Rock, Bark Bay and Tonga Island, the latter to see fur seals (cute).  We then landed at Onetahuti Bay but had to take off our boots and socks to wade ashore onto a sandy beach - the longest in the Abel Tasman National Park.  We planned a 20 km walk on the Able Tasman Coast Path which sounded like a flat stroll along the beach but oh no sir, it was a rollercoaster of a walk.  We started with very steep ascent which, as it turned out, was a portent of things to come.  The Warnes had booked a water taxi back and according to the boards were going to miss the last one by over an hour!  Thus Helen set off like a scalded cat (never seen one but I like the phrase) and then continued to set a fast pace for nearly the remainder of the walk.  The undulating (that's an understatement as it was  truly uppy and downy - it seemed that there was far more upppy!!) path was lovely as it wound around the coast from sea level to 200m (and back again many, many times) through lush bush with viewpoints over the sandy bays, granite cliffs and clear turquoise waters.  The sky was blue, the sun was shining - perfect day to spend with friends.

Lunch was spent at a viewpoint with an OF couple from Illinois who were great fun, although worried that Trump would not let them back in again as they hadn't voted for him!!!  The afternoon was as superb as the morning but with one real downer.  We reached Torrent Bay and there was a sign that read, "Anchorage Bay.  Low tide route 40 mins; high tide route 1 hour 40 mins".  It was not yet low tide.....
This last 90 minutes saw Helen get the bonk (a cyclist term or marathon runners 'hit the wall') but was rejuvenated by chocolate.  Needless to say they made the ferry in good time (Steve had time for a quick dip in the lovely but 19°C sea) and we said a fond farewell.  Steve, Helen and Slyvie have been very kind and generous, particularly with their time.  Their knowledge of NZ flora and fauna enriched the walks.

Well, we were left on a long sweeping beach and our floating hostel was in the bay.  We waved at the catermaran as instructed and a small boat with outboard chugged to pick us up.  It is difficult to describe the Aquapackers boat - it is the big blue and white one in the picture below.  It is run by a very friendly NZ couple who make you feel very much at home.  It only sleeps 22, two double rooms and the remainder in the twin front hulls - described as dormitory but more like submariners triple bunks with a vertiginous ladder for access to the bowels of the ship.  We had an above sea double thank goodness On this floating hostel our fellow ship mates were a mix of nationalities (NZ, German, Spanish, Danish, USA and English) and ages from the chatty 19 year old German, we had supper with, to. .....  us!  A few took the challenge to dive off the roof into the sea and I took the challenge of 'help yourself to tea and coffee'.  There was a small hot shower to scrub away the days grime and a fantastic BBQ supper on the upper deck, oh and a view to die for of a sweeping, sandy beach against a backdrop of verdant forest.  After a tiring day we were lulled to sleep by the gentle swell and faint sound of the small breaking waves. Ah....

We awoke to much more movement, high winds and heavy squalls - help!  After tea in bed (I know my role in life) and a good buffet breakfast, including pancakes fresh off the stove we decided that we had to start the second day of the walk.  We had anoraks and a stiff upper lip so we headed off to fly the flag.

We were ferried to the beach and for the second day in a row had to tackle a job I detest - putting on socks over damp, sandy feet (no matter what you do there is always sand).  The first section was uphiil and 20 minutes later we were on top of the ridge taking off our oilskins and sou'westers and taking photos of a rainbow.  The day very quickly changed from wet English to hot, sunny kiwi.  The 12km walk was very gently undulating and past many little  sandy coves - a super walk which ended with a cafe - heaven.  We started with two large coffees then decided to stay for beers and home-made nachos with beef, salsa and soured cream.

Staggered back to our lovely apartment for an afternoon of writing (blog and postcards), reading, showering and washing our clothes.  We were joined at tea by a giant bug which was comotose/dying but frightened the living daylights out of us.  Tonight we are treating ourselves at a beach side restaurant.

Tomorrow we have a long drive to Hokitika which may not be blog worthy so TTFN.

OF1 on the beach at Kaiteriteri

Queen Charlotte would have been amused.

Saturday 11th February

Back on wi-fi and sitting here in Marahau on the Abel Tasman National Park.  Our lodge apartment, called 'Tango' has the sea one side (see picture) and the back veranda is in forest.  The cacophony of crickets is like tinnitus turned up to 11. You will have needed to watch Spinal Tap for that last bit - it also ages me!

Back to Friday.  At 07:40 we were on a jetty waiting to embark - the weather was dry, windless, but cold.  The Queen Charlotte Sound is quite stunning and it was a picture in the eary morn.  It was a little disconcerting that we were the only folk (out of about 20) that got off at Torea Bay.  The skipper told us to go up the road and turn left. OF1 set off up a one in three road like Ussain Bolt leaving me asthmatically wheezing for England.  At the saddle we met the track.  We were a tad disconcerted to read that our destination was eight hours walk away and we only had six and a half before the boat back to Picton.  The first hour was steeply uphill on the ridge.  However, I was warmed up now and set a steady pace up a track that was very much like an English footpath underfoot with lovely forest of giant ferns and trees.  Every so often there was a view point where one could gaze at the dark blue-green water with forested hills behind with the occasional cove and beach with sometimes a 'batch' (small beach hut /house/shed used at weekends and holidays).  The track continued to offer us superb views all day.  The first hour was uphill until we reached the high point of 407m - time for a water break.  On this first 8km stretch we saw a handful of other walkers.  We had started with four Dutch walkers and we leapfrogged each other throughout the day.  The track is best described as undulating as it wound it's way along the ridge, down to a saddle and then back up again.  At the half way point (in time) we found that we had taken three hours to complete the four hour section - there is life in old dogs yet!  With a feeling of superiority we set forth to tackle the next section of 12.5 km.  Lunch was taken overlooking the Queen Charlotte Sound and a brief talk to our Dutch fellow walkers.  The afternoon's walk was an old bridle track that clung to the steep hillside through lovely beech and fern forest.  It was not far in a straight line but the narrow track followed every inlet and promontory. Towards the end I heard a loud commotion down by the shore.  This turned out to be several nests of Spotted Shag.  I think we would call them Cormorants - we managed a couple of good photos.  On the last section there were a few more walkers and the occasional mountain bike (it is an advanced/intermediate track) but for a lovely summer's day there were few folk around. As we completed our 21km I thought I saw a cafe caravan glistening between gaps in the beech trees - probably a mirage sent to torture the weary, hot, walker? But no....It WAS a little cafe!  We sat by the jetty with coffees and cold drinks and were joined by our dutch friends.  One of them, it turned out, was a football coach and used to take the Dutch U13 side.  He has coached many famous names such as Argen Robben.  His great mate is Andries Jonker the academy coach at Arsenal and he comes over to London to watch football with him.  He told us the the atmosphere in the English grounds is always the best in the world.  He also added that he cannot believe how old fashioned our stadiums are and some are even in the middle of terraced housing!  What a lovely bloke.

Our water taxi arrived and in Picton we hacked off the sweat, grime and factor 50+ under a shower before setting off to see Steve and family near Nelson.  I was pleased that OF1 managed to distinguish between the open doorway and the window this time...

Steve, Helen and Sylvie live in the hills about 15 minutes away from Nelson.  It is an enormous house with 5 acres of land.  They bought it complete with four sheep, four chooks (hens in the Queen's English), one rooster (cockerel, your majesty) and two parrots!  Despite only moving in three weeks ago they have made it very homely but have major plans to change it.

Dinner was delicious fish and chips but with a twist.  We went to a pub that sold lots of local beers and ciders (including berry cider!) We then went to the chippie next door and they came in and served it to us in the pub!  This despite the pub having it's own menu. Strange.

Today we went with Steve et al to Nelson where we strolled round the highly recommended market.  It was brilliant - better than Devizes market or any of the large French or Spanish ones I love so much.  All the stalls were local folk selling their craft, food or other goods.  It was not cheap clothes but individually crafted clothes alongside painters,  toy makers, jewelers, artisan breads, etc.

We then travelled the short distance to the Abel Tasman Park and stopped at a beach (see other picture) of which there are many.  Our accommodation is, yet again, excellent with the added bonus that the manager built it himself.  We are currently waiting for darkness to fall as there are glowworms in a mini-gorge and stream outside our apartment which you cross by bridge.

Tomorrow is an exciting day as we start our two day hike and staying on a floating hostel - the aquapacker.  All will be revealed in the next blog on our return......

OF1 has an HIA

Thursday 9th February

Musing here overlooking Picton Harbour - the view (below) is probably in joint first place with the Bay of Islands.

We were up with the sparrows this morning to drive to Wellington.  Again, great countryside and very little traffic.  At first we were in vineyard country then as we left Hawkes Bay it was mainly cattle ranching.  A coffee stop in Shannon (I must admit to succumbing to the item 'bacon buttie' on the cafe blackboard - delicious), a change of driver and on the road again, singing along to our favourite 1970s and 1980s songs.  Thanks to L2 for adding us to his Spotify family - my tablet has over 500 OF hits to be Bluetoothed over the car's speakers. Dylan, Led Zeppelin, Eagles, Rod Stewart, Sheena Easton, Kate Bush, Hawkwind, and many, many more.

We arrived at the ferry terminal early to find it was in the city centre!  We strolled up to the Government Building (the oldest wooden structure in the southern hemisphere) and had a coffee surrounded by young office types and hipsters.

The boat was small by cross channel standards with 400 passengers.  Our little Toyota was parked by two massive lorries towing even larger trailers; one filled with pigs and the other with sheep.  This made the car deck quite odouriferous (I have been itching to use that word since it was on a notice in the Taupo motel asking residents not to cook odouriferous food).

It was a lovely 3.5 hour crossing, especially coming into South Island, picking our way through the narrow inlet.  Everyone was very chatty.  First a young French lady, Aurore,  was great fun talking about an eclectic mix of subjects including New Zealand food & cheese  (compared to French), wine, Brexit, her job as a notary and itineraries.  At the end she gave us her name and address and invited us to stay FOC in her B &B in Avignon (of pont fame).  We also chatted to a NZ couple from Wellington who were fonts of information - he worked at GEC in Coventry.

We docked in the small town of Picton and found our accommodation: the Harbour View.  The view is stunning through the full length and width glass sliding doors overlooking the bay.  We decided to have a cup of tea on the deck as the sun sunk in the west.  OF1 had put the cups out and was just returning with the biccies when there was a sickening crash and she reeled backwards and collapsed into a chair. She had missed the open section of the large sliding door and walked straight into the fixed window section!!!  She was taken from the field of play for an HIA.  Currently, she is recovering with her usual medicine (medoc taken orally) and talking nineteen to the dozen, so she is fine.

Tomorrow we are catching a water taxi at eight for a walk along the Queen Charlotte track - the weather forecast is good.  We then go to Steve's for the night so there will be no blog for a couple of days which will be a relief to you all.

OF1 tackles a little wine tasting...

Jitterbug anyone?

We are in Nelson - the Art Deco city.  There are many, many buildings still in the Art Deco style; the architecture and colours make this a visually striking place.

However, I am getting ahead of myself. The drive from National Park to Napier was superb.  It started with the mountains in cloud and we felt sorry for those attempting the Tongariro Crossing.  As we drove towards Taupo the lower slopes were clearing, leaving Mount Doom looking very menacing.  The journey retraced our steps along the shores of Lake Taupo before striking East past the Kaingaroa Forest (largest plantation in the Southern Hemisphere).  Here we encountered  many more of the massive logging trucks with huge trailers - machines I thought were only found in USA or Australia. The road (only completely surfaced recently) then winds it's way up through the spectacular hill country to the Titiokura saddle.  The swooping road sped (actually not true as the maximum speed limit is 60 mph) down through the hills until we reached the plains of Hawkes Bay with fruit and vines becoming prominent.  There were a couple of photographic stops, one at Tarawara at a tremendous cafe whose walls had masses of information about the area and Highway 5 over the past century.

We lunched in 30°C on the beach looking across the bay at Napier before exploring the city.  This is the most delightful large place we have been so far.  The whole city was flattened by an earthquake in 1931and rebuilt in the Art Deco style of the time and much has not changed.  There are some great buildings and although the main street looks like any other high street if you look up the buildings are anything but. We enjoyed our stroll around and OF1 managed to repel a pushy lady trying to sell her a 1930's style hat. It was lovely but only if you added the full costume which apparently most do for the annual Art Deco week - I would love to come back for it.

Onto a place to rest our weary heads.  The bike hire place offered accommodation and this was motel style.  The 'unit' is modern, ultra clean with a boutique bathroom.  The worrying thing was the lady of the manor was keen to point out that torches were provided, IN CASE OF AN EARTHQUAKE!!!

We watched a bit of New Zealand television just to confirm how awful it is but were rewarded with something for our Speak Kiwi book.  The fire chief explaining about the forest fires near Canterbury talked about, "the puppy got out of the paddock".  I am left wondering if pony was the subject but then this is New Zealand.

The one thing that is correct here is the weather forecast.  The nice young man said the drought would lift and it did.  This morning we woke to the sound of rain - that very fine stuff that drenches you in seconds.  We cancelled the bike ride but were we upset that the puppy was out of the paddock?  No, we tackled the features on the route by car!  This morning we went to a chocolatier and sampled the goods in solid and liquid form. We also visited the nearby artist co-operative and treated ourselves to a little souvenir.

In the early afternoon we were off on the winery tour, well we went to two!  The most impressive was Mission Estate Winery which is  the oldest, founded by French monks in 1951.  There is a historical information room and we had the wine tasting.  This was just $5 and included a glass which you could buy for $5!!  Still, I was driving so OF1 slurped her way through eight wines and I had a sip (or two).  They were lovely wines and a shame we could not bring a case home.

To finish off the day we went to a little art deco boutique cinema.  There were large leather seats or sofas to sit 45 only in total.  There were upmarket nibbles or you could order a pot of coffee to be delivered to your seat as the film started to roll or a pizza could also be delivered to your seat, freshly cooked at the Italian next door!  As the New Zealanders say (every few seconds), "awesome".  Oh, we watched 'Jackie' which I really enjoyed but OF1 was less enamoured with it.

Tomorrow is a long drive to Wellington for the 1.30 ferry to South Island.  The day after is a walk on the Queen Charlotte track.

Frodo, "Go back, Sam! I’m going to Mordor alone.". Sam, "Of course you are, and I’m coming with you!"

Well, substitute OF1 and OF2 who ventured deep into Mordor with close up views of Mount Doom.  Anyway, leaving JRR Tolkien to his Lord of the Rings fantasy book and getting back to the reality of two old farts on tour.  Actually this blog does drift into fantasy on occasions but today was fantastic.

Firstly, we successfully completed the 19.4km Tongariro Crossing so it's another tick on the bucket list.  (We don't have one but it is the sort of thing that we would put on one of we did).  We climbed 765m and descended 1125m (it was a one way walk). However, the numbers are secondary to a fabulous walk over volcanic landscapes and a little glaciation (L1 would love it). 

The day started at the ridiculous time of 05:45, brekky at 6:15 and bus pick up at 7:00.  The bus was very old (Hino - made in India?) and soon you realised why; the 9km dirt track up to the starting point would have done our little Toyota no good at all. There was low cloud as we left our lodge but this was quickly burned off at height - leaving lovely views of the valleys filled with fluffy cotton wool.  Our bus picked up at three hotels/YHA and we quickly realised that there were many buses from all over the place doing the same thing - it was not just Frodo and Gollum - there were hundreds and hundreds of folk coming with us!  The track was good as it was maintained except for the higher sections and included a lot of steps (up and, particularly, down).  For a bit of excitement there was also a very, very small section of fixed rope (unnecessary on such a dry day).  We started walking steadily uphill in tussock grass country admiring glacial moraines for about a hour.  Here there were two toilets and a queue as big as a One Direction concert.  (disclaimer:. Neither OF has been to a concert by this popular beat combo).  OF1 eschewed the queue and headed for a pyroclastic flow (that's a geographical term not a euphemism). 

The next sections were great.  First a very steep hike up to South Crater with  super views of Mount Ngauruhoe/Doom.  Both OFs were in fine form on this uphill and we were quickly in the crater which has no vegetation to speak of and it was described to us as moon-like. Note: our moon experience is the same as a one direction concert.  It is filled with flows from Mount Ngauruhoe and was very atmospheric.  Then we climbed out of this crater - the path was  not maintained here so we struggled for traction on the rock and ash path - to the top of Red Crater which comprised (you've guessed it) red and chocolate brown rock (from rusting of the iron in the rock) and an active fumarole.  We were on a thin lip here which was like Striding Edge with a brisk breeze trying to blow your hat to America.  However, it was a real photographer's paradise with cone volcanoes, craters and lakes the colour of emerald and blue (called the Emerald Lake, etc.,).  We will be filling pages and pages at this rate....

The descent from the high point was steep fine rock and ash which terrified some of our fellow walkers but these OFs found geriatric scree running the best method.  (As Dad dancing is to real dancing,!). Lunch was taken by the Emerald Lake which is not potable as it gets its colour from dissolved minerals in the water and is acidic (pH 5).

We were on the home leg now but only halfway through the walk.  Firstly, we walked through Central Crater and admired it's lava flows then descended by a zig-zag path through alpine flowers past the The Mai craters which erupted in 2012 and we saw the steam coming out of several vents and the air stunk of sulphur - all very .....volcanic. The last 4km of the path meandered through the tussock grassland then forest to wait for our creaky old bus. One moment of excitement in the forest was a sign which warned of the danger of lahars and asked you to move through the next 700m quickly without stopping and not to enter if you heard one.  The old geography teacher in me sprung into action, explaining that a lahar was a water lubricated debris flow containing razor-sharp pyroclastic rocks

It had been a sunny day and we both drank two litres each.  This was water - we are celebrating tonight with something a tad stronger. This is rated as New Zealand's best one day walk and it certainly is a very special one but sharing it with so many others and the paths made it a 9.5/10 for me.

Currently we are having a preprandial before hitting the station cafe.  Not the sort of place for a celebration dinner?  Well, in the evening it transforms into a smart, white tablecloth, restaurant.  We sampled last night and instantly booked again.

Tomorrow we take our tired legs (and Kivin) to Napier where we plan to look around the Art Deco bits before heading off to our digs to prepare for Wednesday's bike ride around the vineyards.  Next blog will report on our wine adventures...

Cheers!

One more joins the party

Sunday 5th

At last a quiet day with just 100km to drive.  A tad of a lie in before a visit to Taupo and a bit of shopping for the Tongariro Crossing tomorrow.  It is 19km but the graph of ascent is virtually overhanging.  However, OF1 now has an orange and white beanie and we both have neck scarf thingies that you can convert to a hat and 20 other things (but not a coffee machine). Oh, and a map but it may well be wall-to-wall walkers as the forecast is good.

We also picked up a hitch hiker.  We have been joined by Kiwi Kevin (pronounced "Kivin") who is sweet natured and will be a great addition to the team.  He features in today's photo.

It was a very pleasant drive; firstly along the shores of Lake Taupo then into the mountains.  There are three in a row:
Mount Ngauruhoe - active volcano and used as Mount Doom in 'Lord of the Rings' and a parasitic cone of:
Mount Tongariro - our destination tomorrow (well just under the summit), plus the highly photogenic..
Mount Ruapehu - snow covered all year and ski resort in winter

We are currently ensconced in Piper's Lodge which is a cross between a ski lodge and mountain hut.  We have an ensuite but there are plenty of dorms as well.  It is large and comfortable in a relaxed, tatty, wooden ceilings and walls way.  There are 3 hot tubs and as we left the bar/lounge area the big screen was being pulled down to show Australia V NZ cricket.  We are in the confusingly named village of National Park with superb alpine views blue sky and hot sun.

So we are on carbs loading tonight before a 6:15am breakfast and transport to the start.  As it is a one way walk the transport collects you at the other end as well.  Thus is is an early night (Kivin is kipping in the car) as we prepare to follow in the footsteps of Frodo.....

If two old farts survive then there will be a tired update tomorrow (or the next day if too knackered).  If not, look after Kevin.

"Let's have a day to recharge the batteries......"

We decided last night to have a day of leisure today - coffee in town then a meander to the Huka Falls after which we would saunter home, go for run, read on the beach, etc.  The first bit went to plan with a pleasant 1.5 km lake shore stroll into Taupo where we looked at the harbour, the shops, etc before having another coffee al fresco.  Goods are not cheap in New Zealand; we went into an outdoor shop and walking stuff was as expensive, if not more so, than UK.  The only difference was that you could also buy a gun!!!   Kiwis are keen on hunting and fishing  - the lake apparently has masses of trout waiting to be lured into the frying pan.

Now, there is an army phrase PPPPPPP - the seven P's.  I have quoted the mantra, "pathetically poor planning produces pathetically poor performance" to the boys often enough.  (actually the army may just use another word beginning with P than the one I've used).  Well, the map I was using showed the Huka Falls about twice the distance from motel to town, hence my assumption of a nice down river stroll carrying our delicious packed lunch.  The map had no scale but I thought the calculations were reasonable.  To cut a long story short we are now back in our motel having tramped 16km in the burning heat and are now rehydrating and applying after sun.  Our knees are a little sore and the idea of going for a run is out the window.

However, it was a good walk - after we were leeward of the town's sewage works.  The track followed the river bank then up over a cliff where there was a bungee jump - no one silly enough to do it.  We then descended through a park to where a hot spring joins the river and lots of folk were there just luxuriating.  However, we were on a mission and 45 minutes of fast undulating walking brought us to the falls.  Here the Waikato river is squeezed into a narrow gorge. Thus the bright blue water accelerates like Lewis Hamilton in an azure blue and white foam and a roar that can be heard a long way down the track.

We slavered more suntan cream on and hit the homeward trail.  It was comforting to meet a hot and sweaty couple from Northern England who had also fallen for the "not to scale" ploy but still had 3+ km to the falls and back then 8 km back to Taupo.  "Bloody Hell" was his summary of the cartographic accuracy of the 'around Taupo' map.  We stopped at the Bungee jumping as there was a little cafe with a fridge full of cold drinks AND we got to see two mad folk jump off!

After four mugs of tea with dunked ginger bickies and a shower it was .....  beer o'clock!  Cheers.

ps     today's photo shows the tragic effect that sun, dehydration and overexertion can have on an OF

Two Old Farts at a Geothermal Park in New Zealand

Yes it really was that yellow-green colour!

Did the earth move for you darling?

Thursday 2nd

A day of travelling, from Thames to Whakatane.  A good drive, stopping at Mount Maunganui Beach (#1 beach in NZ on trip advisor and in the world's top 25 beaches) for a beach side coffee shop with all the other hipsters and surfing dudes.  Well there was the odd pensioner there as well.  Caffeined up we continued to Whakatane to book up a trip to the active volcano named White Island for Friday. 

The afternoon was spent on the famous Ohope Beach voted NZ's best loved beach with safe swimming and surfing (we did neither).  In glorious sunny 'wither'' (25°) it was a picture - 11km of sand backed by Pohutukawa trees, expensive houses and little cafes, art shops, etc.  I tried the latter two.

We then found our latest, for one night only, motel ... the Livingston Motel (well it was a must, all but one 'e').  Anyway, we unpacked and sat down with a cuppa when the earth moved!!!?  A slight tremor was felt twice - a little worrying,  but no tea was spilt.

On the tectonic plate movement theme we had some disappointing news this morning when paying our hotel bill.  OF1 asked about the siren and apparently it was not the tsunami siren being tested but the siren to call all the volunteer firefighters to the station for a "shout".  Still it was a good story at the time....

In the local shop we had our next lesson on "teach yourself New Zealand" when OF1 was completely flummoxed by the cashier who asked her about quiche.  We had a small spinach and feta quiche in the shopping bag but it took an OF1 query to ascertain that she was asking, "card or quiche?".

Friday

Gross disappointment.  At 8am we had a phone call and "Imma sid the wither" (that's:  Emma said the weather) was not to the captain's taste and the trip to the volcano was cancelled.  For the first time in NZ it was raining (a little) but also windy.  With 45km of sea to cross and use inflatables to land it was too dangerous to try.  Were we downhearted?  Why, .......... yes.  Absolutely fed up but as one door closes another opens.  OF1 has promised me a trip to Sicily - we saw a great agro-tourism place from which one can see the glow of Etna. Next holiday sorted.

We set off for Rotorua and arrived at coffee time.  We were on our final descent to the centre when we noticed a dreadful smell and smoke to our left.  We stopped and found that this was Kuirau Park.  It is a public
park where you can wander amongst boiling mud pools, steam vents, hot water pools, etc.  It was quite amazing (and smelly) as each thermal attraction only had a small fence around it and the public were free to roam, picnic, etc.  By coffee the sun was out and rising quickly back up to 28°C today as the cloud and rain moved northwards.  We scooted around the centre looking in craft shops and buying lunch in a local bakery.  We went down to the lake to munch our sarnies (well I put my hand up to an award winning steak & cheese pie) and watched a seaplane ("float plane" here) take off.

The afternoon turned out to be pretty special.  We went to Wai-O-Tapu  Thermal Wonderland which sounds pretty naff and something to run far away from BUT it is highly rated on good old Trip Advisor and it deserves the plaudits.  The park is beautifully kept and well laid out in a series of loops.  We did the lot at some 3km but there were a myriad of photo opportunities and information to be read.  We saw a whole range of geo-thermal features.  These included, craters, mud pools, sinter terraces, sulphur caves, geyser (but not erupting) and caves.  These were all fascinating but the colours of the minerals that are deposited in rings around the pools and colour the water were simply stunning.  There were yellows, greens, reds and whites all of which we saw through swirling clouds of sulphurous steam.  It was a real awe and wonder afternoon.

All this geothermal stuff is not just at the thermal parks but alongside the road there is the odd bit of steam rising or signpost to "mud pool".  We also drove past a thermal power station.

We recovered with a delicious mango sorbet before heading on to our motel for the next two nights at Taupo.  We are at the Sails Motel which overlooks the lake (well our "unit" is back from the road and we have what estate agents would call 'lake glimpses').  This is another very good place and the unit even has a separate lounge and bedroom.  A quick sortie to the local Countdown (no Rachel Riley here - it's like Tesco) to stock up on a few local products (mainly beer and wine) for dinner and packed lunches. Lake Taupo is huge: 48km x 35km and has lots of walking routes, water activities, extreme sports, etc.

Writing this with a chilled glass of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc in my hand - sorry about the wet pages and blurry writing. 

Today's lesson in the speak New Zealand course was the answer to a problem we have been grappling with for a few days.  You will remember that early doors we sacked headmistress Jocye from our sat-nav and installed Kiwi Bin (spelt Ben).  When you reach your destination he tells us to, "grab your togs, jandels and chillixxxxx and get going.  Cheers for the ride mate". The last item we had to grab has been eluding us until tonight - it is "Chilly Bin" which translates as Cool Box.

We are aiming to be fluent by March....see you mate.

After a hard day....

There's gold in them there hills!!

Thames is an interesting place.  It was once the largest town in New Zealand as the quartz veins in the area contained gold.  In 1867, the first gold mine started (found by Cornish tin miners) and BOOM!  The town mushroomed to over 20,000  but ten years later the miners had moved on.  Thames now has a population of 17,000 but some of the over 100 hotels built during those golden years are still here (and still hotels) alongside other original buildings.  Still enough history and onto today..

The word for today is 'wither' but not as in "my geraniums withered in the heat' but as in 'the wither today has been sunny and 24°C' which it has.

We set off for a walk in the Kauaeranga Valley - a national park.  This is in the hills just outside Thames and a quick drive brought us to the end of the road as it turned into a gravel track.  Just 3km up was a very smart visitor centre and a ranger advised us to walk the Cookson and Wainora Kauri track.  This was a lovely walk, first alongside the river and then it struck off up the spur.  As this was a walking track it was well maintained with bridges over the streams and a gravel track.  It wound its way through 'the bush' which  in truth it looked more like tropical forest with liana-type vines, epiphytes and trees covered in moss.  There are ferns, not just as undergrowth but as giant tree ferns as well (plus all sizes in between).  Going up was a bit of a monster as it was steep but the rangers have put in steps, and more steps, and more steps, and even more steps!  If you had the breath as you climbed you could have sung 'stairway to heaven' many, many times.  That said, the forest and the views were excellent.  First stop was the giant Cookson Kauri tree which gave us photo opportunities​ and a breather.  All Kauri trees are protected as they were nearly all logged for ships' timber, mining or agricultural clearance.  At the beginning of the walk was disinfectant for your boots as the trees are now under threat from a die-back disease.  The track then turned into a tramping trail and it was marked by little orange arrows but not maintained.  This was even more fun and picture-worthy (see todays image of OF1 in forest glade mode) as we skipped over the tree roots.  We reached the Wainora Kauri trees and admired their straight, thick, trunks (ideal for masts, spars, pit props, etc.) which do not have branches until about 2/3 up.

We had our picnic at the top of the descent over looking Table Mountain - yes NZ has one as well.

With a quick tea stop back at the Tuscany we were off again but only to the other side of town for a visit to a gold mine.  This was a project that was started and run by volunteers who are developing an old gold mine (the hill behind the town is, apparently, like a Swiss cheese) and stamping battery.  Our guide (for only three, us two and a mad Lithuanian woman who took more photos than you have had hot dinners) was originally from Chichester but had spent many years in NZ so spoke more like a native.  We first donned hard hats and set off through some of the myriad of tunnels - amazing that they were all hand dug by desperate men trying to find their own pot of gold.  Lumps of quartz were extracted and sent to the stamping battery where steam driven giant iron hammers stamped the chunks into smaller bits until they were sand sized.  The gold (and silver plus copper) was then washed out through mercury (later this was substituted by cyanide,!!??).  Thus the life span of a miner was very short - blind from working underground, deaf through the giant stampers, and mad from the mercury.  Not to mention dead from silicosis or heavy metal and cyanide poisoning.  You can tell that our guide was excellent.

Back to the ranch where I had a swim whilst OF2 read by the pool. We then made ourselves beautiful for a night out on the town ...  well we went to "Gastronomic", a restaurant recommended by our hosts.  It was excellent.  I had mussel chowder followed by gurnard and OF1 started with shrimp cocktail and a main of pork.  All washed down with a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  Great meal as every bit of it was delicious.

Returned to base to find that I had only scored 17 points in the FFL - it's all going south......

Tomorrow we travel to Whakatane further along the north east coast.  We hope for a trip out to sea to visit an active volcano on Friday.  Next update after my hot date with White Island