Sunday 12 February 2017

Life on the ocean wave.

Monday 13th February

Our two day hike has successfully been completed and we are sitting like........ two old farts really, complete with cup of tea.

Back to yesterday it started with us outside waiting for a minibus to pick us up at 7.30 am like two elderly school children.  A short drive to the boat company HQ, check in, meet up with Steve and Helen and we were ready to board. We were summoned to embark and we climbed into the 20 seater boat which was on a trailer linked to a tractor.  We then drove for about one kilometre along the beach front road and then the tractor reversed down the beach until we were in the sea!  There is no jetty and with a tidal range approaching 4m the tractors can sometimes go nearly a kilometre out to sea to drop off and pick up.

The water taxi took us for a mini tour of Split Apple Rock, Bark Bay and Tonga Island, the latter to see fur seals (cute).  We then landed at Onetahuti Bay but had to take off our boots and socks to wade ashore onto a sandy beach - the longest in the Abel Tasman National Park.  We planned a 20 km walk on the Able Tasman Coast Path which sounded like a flat stroll along the beach but oh no sir, it was a rollercoaster of a walk.  We started with very steep ascent which, as it turned out, was a portent of things to come.  The Warnes had booked a water taxi back and according to the boards were going to miss the last one by over an hour!  Thus Helen set off like a scalded cat (never seen one but I like the phrase) and then continued to set a fast pace for nearly the remainder of the walk.  The undulating (that's an understatement as it was  truly uppy and downy - it seemed that there was far more upppy!!) path was lovely as it wound around the coast from sea level to 200m (and back again many, many times) through lush bush with viewpoints over the sandy bays, granite cliffs and clear turquoise waters.  The sky was blue, the sun was shining - perfect day to spend with friends.

Lunch was spent at a viewpoint with an OF couple from Illinois who were great fun, although worried that Trump would not let them back in again as they hadn't voted for him!!!  The afternoon was as superb as the morning but with one real downer.  We reached Torrent Bay and there was a sign that read, "Anchorage Bay.  Low tide route 40 mins; high tide route 1 hour 40 mins".  It was not yet low tide.....
This last 90 minutes saw Helen get the bonk (a cyclist term or marathon runners 'hit the wall') but was rejuvenated by chocolate.  Needless to say they made the ferry in good time (Steve had time for a quick dip in the lovely but 19°C sea) and we said a fond farewell.  Steve, Helen and Slyvie have been very kind and generous, particularly with their time.  Their knowledge of NZ flora and fauna enriched the walks.

Well, we were left on a long sweeping beach and our floating hostel was in the bay.  We waved at the catermaran as instructed and a small boat with outboard chugged to pick us up.  It is difficult to describe the Aquapackers boat - it is the big blue and white one in the picture below.  It is run by a very friendly NZ couple who make you feel very much at home.  It only sleeps 22, two double rooms and the remainder in the twin front hulls - described as dormitory but more like submariners triple bunks with a vertiginous ladder for access to the bowels of the ship.  We had an above sea double thank goodness On this floating hostel our fellow ship mates were a mix of nationalities (NZ, German, Spanish, Danish, USA and English) and ages from the chatty 19 year old German, we had supper with, to. .....  us!  A few took the challenge to dive off the roof into the sea and I took the challenge of 'help yourself to tea and coffee'.  There was a small hot shower to scrub away the days grime and a fantastic BBQ supper on the upper deck, oh and a view to die for of a sweeping, sandy beach against a backdrop of verdant forest.  After a tiring day we were lulled to sleep by the gentle swell and faint sound of the small breaking waves. Ah....

We awoke to much more movement, high winds and heavy squalls - help!  After tea in bed (I know my role in life) and a good buffet breakfast, including pancakes fresh off the stove we decided that we had to start the second day of the walk.  We had anoraks and a stiff upper lip so we headed off to fly the flag.

We were ferried to the beach and for the second day in a row had to tackle a job I detest - putting on socks over damp, sandy feet (no matter what you do there is always sand).  The first section was uphiil and 20 minutes later we were on top of the ridge taking off our oilskins and sou'westers and taking photos of a rainbow.  The day very quickly changed from wet English to hot, sunny kiwi.  The 12km walk was very gently undulating and past many little  sandy coves - a super walk which ended with a cafe - heaven.  We started with two large coffees then decided to stay for beers and home-made nachos with beef, salsa and soured cream.

Staggered back to our lovely apartment for an afternoon of writing (blog and postcards), reading, showering and washing our clothes.  We were joined at tea by a giant bug which was comotose/dying but frightened the living daylights out of us.  Tonight we are treating ourselves at a beach side restaurant.

Tomorrow we have a long drive to Hokitika which may not be blog worthy so TTFN.

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