Reflections on the trip

Back home safe and sound after 36 hours of travelling over half way around the earth (it is shorter to go via the USA from the Cook Islands but our schedule and the airlines did not match - don't they know who we are?!).  It was 36 hours worth forgetting as there are only so many films and so much airline food a man can take.  Not to mention the innumerable time lines and the international date line again which gives you jet-lag times 24 hours.

So some reflections on New Zealand and the trip.

1. The New Zealanders are glass half-full folk (in contrast to the UK) and very proud of their country and heritage, albeit a short one.
2. The roads are fantastic, except Auckland, despite the 60 mph speed limit. There is always plenty to see on a road trip.
3. The Department of Conservation walks are superb - well graded, clearly marked and good information.
4. The TV is awful!
5. The towns look like something out of the wild west but are full of independent shops.
6. The motels were a bonus for the traveller - very good accommodation with the option of self catering.
7. The Cook Islands are great places to relax amongst the palm trees on beautiful sandy beaches.  The islands are friendly, safe and laid-back - "island time" says it all.  Kia Orana!

People always ask about the best bits but this has proved the impossible question.  Each day was great and we were blessed with odds-defying weather. Seven and half weeks and only two half days of rain is a freak result in anyone's book. 

Would we go again?  Like a shot.  

Are we going again? No - there are too many other places that are on the Old Farts' list.  

Watch this space.....

World First - a flying Kiwi!

Beach and Lagoon

Hotel Pool

Auckland Airport part III

Here we are, back in Auckland.

Unfortunately we have a seven hour wait until our plane to Singapore leaves so what better thing do to but complete the blog.  The lack of wi-fi hampered the pictorial progress but not the verbosity.

Yesterday was a good slob day but late afternoon we were back on the adventurous trail.  We borrowed the hotel kayaks and set off like......Two old farts in canoes!  We paddled around a section of the lagoon, stopping to snorkel like a couple of old pros.  This shallow area did not have the large fish from the cruise - this lot only went up to side plate size!  There were impressive white and black striped ones but the luminescent blue ones caught the eye.  OF1 found a very long thin one and there was a plethora of aquarium-type fish. 

I was going well in my little kayak until I got cramp!  Somehow the angle of my legs made me cramp up - how OF1 laughed! 

In the evening we walked a mile down the road to have our last meal in the Cook Islands at the #1 cafe on the island....... it was closed!!!.  We trudged towards the hotel looking at hermit crabs the size of your fist scampering (favourite word of OF1's sister) back into their holes in the roadside as we approached.

Eventually we were at the end of the hotel road and revisited the Mexican restaurant.  I had the beef chimmichanga which was packed full of spicy chunks of tender beef but OF1 made the canny choice of fish fahitas which contained the most delicious yellow fin tuna.  We washed it all down with a bottle of bubbly to celebrate the most wonderful of holidays.

Today the weather was...... wait for it........... hot and sunny and very humid. It was a scorcher.  We spent some time packing our cases for the very last time then breakfast by the pool with tropical fruit salad fresh from the trees.  We had a couple of hours to kill so we had coffee and the world famous custard squares (they do qualify this as world famous in Muri!!!) which were delicious, in a cafe just up the road.

We showered and changed then our bus to the airport arrived and the long journey home commenced.  Raratonga International Airport is tiny but our big bags were labelled up to Heathrow so we will not see them for days.  The airport just got hotter and hotter with the thermometer reading 90°F and very humid to boot. From 30° and sun to 16° and rain in Auckland is some contrast

The flight here was good with a lively discussion in the seats behind as a loud woman filled a vacant seat to chat to her mate whilst swilling a significant amount of white wine.  The man behind objected - to her and chief steward.  All good fun.

I hope the 8th of March was a good one as we are only having the fag end of it, having jumped 24 hours crossing the IDL.

We are now residing in the Emperor Lounge in the airport so we can relax, have some food and a shower (I am being teased about my third change of clothes today).

I will write a reflection on all we have seen and done when back at home.

Swimming with the fish

Monday 6^th March

Kia Orana from our tropical paradise island.

Our last full day on holiday with just a marathon of flights to tackle; we are feeling a bit sad that it is all coming to an end.  There is a mix of, “where has all the time gone?” and “we have been away for a long time” – quite a paradox.

Yesterday was a real highlight; the Koka Lagoon Cruise.  We embarked on our glass bottomed boat with six young Cook Islanders in charge who were fantastic throughout the four hours of the trip.  They started as the band - drums and ukuleles - with local songs that had a real beat.  We motored slowly over the lagoon with super views of the main island which rises out of the sea with steep, jungle shrouded hills up to a cloud covered top. 

Our first stop was the marine reserve where we watched the lads feed the fish - giant Bluefin Trevelly and smaller yellow butterfly fish were the ones that caught the eye but there were thousands of different varieties of all shapes, sizes and gaudy colours.  There were also giant clams - mega mother of pearl shells if they were opened. Then it was our turn!  We donned masks and snorkels and in we jumped!  The water is like a warm bath but teeming with wildlife!  It was crystal clear and soon we were swimming to a couple of points where the conservationists were trying to re-introduce the coral and clams.  The hour or so we spent snorkelling was memorable as we drifted around the coral with fish just a few centimetres away.  I was hooked (sorry about that) and although I am not a strong swimmer, I loved the whole activity.  Meanwhile 'the lads' were trying to find Roger the Conger Eel but he was not coming out to play that particular morning - not sure that I wanted him to as he is 3m long!

Back on the boat and to some very rhythmic drumming, playing and singing we made our way to an island ('Mutu') in the lagoon - the one opposite our hotel.  Here we were treated to a delicious BBQ which included grilled tuna, which was the best I've ever tasted, and salads.  There was lots of entertainment in our jungle clearing; as well as singing and playing we had a coconut demonstration where we were shown nuts of different stages of ripeness (for drinking through to coconut flakes) and how to de-husk and open.  There was much audience participation including OF1 who was handed a large knife to open the coconut.  This was pretty entertaining as she nearly took the hand off the lad who was holding it at the time!  We also had a coconut climbing demonstration which was very impressive - climbing with just a rope around the ankles and jumping frog-like up the tree.  Some of the tourists had a go but then a member of the crew leapt like a salmon up to the top of a 50' tree and cut some coconuts.  The pareu (sarong) tying demo using the visitors as models was a hoot (the men's 'g-string' pareu was eye watering), as was the hermit crab race.

Ali of this was interspersed with more music and lots of local information.  The six crew members did not stop - boatmen, musicians, cooks, entertainers and happy, smiley people to boot.  

In the late afternoon we slobbed back at the ranch - swimming, reading, painting etc. before launching out into the humid evening to the Muri Night Market.  This is actually a street food market which seemed popular with locals and visitors alike.  I opted for a coconut lamb curry and OF1 for a chicken and spinach one - yummy.  A little belatedly (for Shrove Tuesday) we had a pancake for pud, this was a lemon and sugar crepe.

Today we are having an easy day as the heat seems to have been turned up a notch. We have ventured out for coffee at the trip-advisor rated, deli-licious cafe - it was.  It is on the roadside (as everything is really) and there was lots of people watching whilst sipping our flat whites.  Throughout NZ the system is: order your coffee and be given a number then wait until it is served.  So much better than hanging around Starbucks or Costa for a long time whilst the barista makes the coffee.  Most are straight numbers, others hand with numbers but at the Deli-licious we were given a large plastic animal - we had an elephant.  It was lovely sitting under a tree (this one is very common - very fine leaved and covered with lovely red flowers), with birds, chickens and the ubiquitous dog and watch the world go by.  There is an expression here, "island time" which contributes to the laid back atmosphere; there is no fast food as it all comes when it is ready.

We are now preparing for an island time afternoon.....

Cook of the Week

Saturday 4th March

Kia Orana again.

I am afraid that there is not much to report at the moment as the pace of life has slowed to a swim, followed by  reading on the beach, a swim, a little food and drink, a swim, etc....

Yesterday we stayed around Muri Beach (where our hotel is located) and spent the morning orientating ourselves with the loungers on the beach that overlook the lagoon.  Despite being in the shade all day and factor 50 sun block the sun found those little areas that one forgot by the end of the day.  We did have a walk to the local village which comprises a couple of hotels, a few shops and some eating establishments.  We bought some vital supplies - wine, crisps, lemon puffs (cook Islands style) and water.  It was then time to explore the hotel swimming pool which is large, clean, empty (of people not water) and warm; there is not much more one can say about a swimming pool.  The hotel food is good with buffet breakfast overlooking the sea and a pretty good menu for lunch and supper on the beach overlooking the sea.  Pretty idyllic (did I mention that all meals are taken on the beach overlooking the sea?).

Last night was pork and prawn night and this split us neatly down the middle.  OF1 had six enormous and juicy prawns in lemon and garlic butter and I had three super large BBQ sizzling steaks which were juicy and fell apart like pulled pork.  We went to bed last night full and feeling that we had overdosed on sun and beach.  Luckily we have air-con in the room so we can cool it down to a reasonable temperature (24 degrees).

Today we woke up and guess?  Yet another hot sunny day!  The forecast gave this as 29 degrees with occasional showers - it is now 6pm and although the cloud has bubbled up a couple of times this afternoon there has been no rain.  Our good fortune continues to hold.

We breakfasted then walked out onto the 'ring road (i.e. the one that goes around the island which is also round) and flagged down the bus to take us to the Saturday market at the main town (a very small town in UK), Avarua.  The Punanga Nui Market was the place to be with many local residents and tourists in the bustling market.  There was a wide range of shopping treats including, local fruit & veg, fresh flower garlands, street food, clothes, arts and crafts.  There was also a cultural show of Polynesian dancing and drumming which was well done.  The good thing about the market is that although the stall holders were very friendly ('Kia Orana') they are not pushy and there is no hassle, just smiles and enquiries if you are having a nice time.  What lovely people.  At our second coffee stop of the day I decided to have a spot of lunch and ordered a fish chowder (I reckoned that if you are only 20m away from the sea then it must be good).  What I had done was misread my watch and it was only 11:45 not the 12:45 I thought - brunch then?  OF1 looked on in amazement...but it was very good.

We caught the anticlockwise bus again so that we completed the around the island trip (the whole 30km takes 50 minutes  including stops).  Basically there is a clockwise bus and an anticlockwise bus every hour and you just flag it down wherever you are - its so simple.  There are many lovely to-die-for beaches and a variety of accommodation (backpackers to hotels).  The little homes are rustic but well kept with plenty of lush grass lawn.  The massive graves in the front garden continue to fascinate us - I suggested that we start building our mausoleum in the front garden back home.  The whole place is bedecked with tropical flowers, coconut palms and lots of tropical plants that I don't know.  There are also small fields of tropical vegetables and some pigs and goats.  The chickens are everywhere and we have worked out that a mother and two little chicks seem to visit our little garden outside the room in the late afternoon - they like lemon puffs!  Yesterday the noisy cockerel also visited at the same time and ...... the next bit has been removed by the censors!

We arrived back from our trip with just one art print and lots of photos and then we had a relaxing dip in the pool - this trip is hell!  Then I remembered it was Saturday and to my great surprise Gillingham had won!  This is cause for celebration and we are going out to one of the local restuarants to raise a glass to the Gills.

Tomorrow, we have booked ourselves on a lagoon trip involving snorkelling - more next time.

Must go now, it's merlot o'clock.....

PS sorry about the lack of pictures - I cannot upload images onto this computer.

Groundhog Day

Thursday 2nd March

Kia Orana!

Greetings from the tropical Cook Islands.  

We have arrived safely after a little bumpy 3.5 hour flight and we have already enjoyed dips in the lagoon and the swimming pool.  The hotel is on the beach front with kayaks, paddle boards and snorkelling gear for the residents. I have tried a paddle board for the first time and the best I can say is that I didn't fall off!  Progress was 'stately' with the breeze offering more power than I did. The lagoon is, apparently, teaming with fish and we will try the masks and snorkells tomorrow.  It has a lovely view with a few offshore islands and then the surf of the reef.

Rarotonga International Airport is about the size of a large school sports centre and very quaint with it.  We linked in with our transfer bus and we were given a bottle of cold water and a garland of fresh, fragrant flowers was hung around our necks!  We have images to prove it but the hotel has a computer but limited wifi so I have opted for the former tonight.  Our room is also covered in fresh tropical flowers with even a hibiscus flower on top of the loo roll.  

The island we are on is difficult to describe but first impressions were of happy people and lots of enormous graves - some in people's gardens!  The island is not rich and pristine but it is not back in time either.   I think we will have a better idea in a few days' time.  The road runs around the perimeter of the island and there is a clockwise bus and an anticlockwise bus!  We can use that to explore or the big thing seems to be hiring scooters to make the round trip (it is only about 30km for the complete circuit) - OF1 is keen on this option but it is a long time since I owned and drove my own Honda 50. However, the speed limit is just above walking pace and the main dangers seem to be dogs and chickens in the road.  Lots of fun and relaxation to be had by both of us with the emphasis on the latter. 

The most amazing thing is that we have had the 2nd of March twice!  Yesterday when I wrote the blog it was Thursday 2nd in Auckland and today (24 hours later) in Rarotonga it is the 2nd of March.  We are now 10 hours behind the UK instead of being 13 hours in front. If I wasn't confused before I left, I will be when I return!

Richter rumblings

Thursday 2nd March

Back in Auckland after two days of travel, tourist treats and trepidation.

St David's Day dawned cold and bright and after frying up a load of bacon for brekky and sarnies we left Arthur's Pass and our cozy cabin (there seems to be a lot of alliteration in this blog).  Yet another superb journey with a few stops - some more planned than others.  We stopped a couple of times to look at the enormous braided River Bealey and wondered what it must look like in spate.  We were then flagged down to a stop while a flock of sheep were herded up the main arterial road which these gigantic lorries with trailers were blazing up and down.  The sheep dog was obviously a learner as the sheep overshot the gate and there was a lot of whistling as the recalcitrant animals were pointed in the right direction. It was very ..... New Zealand.

We then stopped at the limestone caves (called Cave Stream). We did not make the one kilometre trip underground but lots of wet-suited, helmetted school children were about to.  Coffee was taken at a small café that was not one of the best; it was a long, long wait for very average coffee.  It was run by an English couple!!

We arrived in Christchurch at lunchtime and we ate our bacon and egg sandwiches by the River Avon in Hagley Park in the sunshine.  Christchurch is a garden city with many parks and tree lined avenues.  We found our motel,  just a 10 minute walk to the CBD which was ideal for exploring.  Off we strode and the devastating results of the 2011 earthquake were soon in evidence (just 10m away) and it continued to amaze and sadden us for the whole 24 hours of our stay.  We took a tram tour around the city centre which included an in-depth commentary and orientated us for further exploration.  Over 80% of the city centre buildings were significantly affected and have been (or are scheduled to be) pulled down or rebuilt.  The landscape is one of empty lots (some with just the foundations sticking out), new build and older buildings shored up with vast steel structures.  It was all very sad yet exciting to see the new growth - there are some very architecturally exciting buildings  There were cranes, builders and fitters everywhere and the noise of construction filled the air.  The historic tram ride lasted about an hour and it was quite an emotional trip.  There are so many things I could write about Christchurch but the main things that I am sure will stick in my mind are:
*.  The ruined cathedral
*.  The flowers in the plot where 115 were killed
*.  The 185 white chairs, each with a fresh red carnation, laid out on 185 square metres of turf to commemorate the total number of deaths
*.  The shops in containers: Re:Start Mall
*.  The number of buildings still to be knocked down or repaired

The whole scale of the rebuild is mind blowing but the construction work is being undertaken with great vigour, pride and belief.  Our friends visited Christchurch in 2012 and I cannot imagine what it must have been like just one year after the devastation.

We had booked tickets to watch 'Moonlight' at a small art house cinema with only 35 seats and done out in Egyptian style!  We enjoyed the film (7-8 ex 10 were our scores) and very glad we have seen it.  The hand held 360° shots made me feel quite queasy but the acting is strong with powerful themes.  We concluded the day with a lovely Italian meal and then headed for home.

There were strange forces at play during the night!  At 05:15 I felt the bed move and it also woke up OF1.  It was obvious ground movement that lasted perhaps 20-30 seconds.  Not very comforting. Then we were sitting in bed with a cup of tea watching the 8 am news when the room shook again, this was shorter but with a bit more sway.  I found a website and the 05:17 one measured 4.7 on the Richter Scale and the 08.01 was 5.2, both quite shallow.  There are a huge number of tremors and between 8am and 9am today there were seven with the first the largest, the remainder in the 2s and 3s on the logarithmic scale.  Although I was very taken with Christchurch, I could not live there with such stark daily reminders of tectonic activity.

This morning, after packing up,  we decided to go out for breakfast and opted for an al fresco number in the quaint Spanish mission style street where the trams rumble through.  It was a long breakfast - a two coffee one - and at ten o'clock we were suddenly engulfed with the florescent vests of the building trades having their morning break!  We spent the rest of the morning at the superb botanical gardens which were lovely to stroll through.  However, it was a little weird sitting in a most beautiful, fragrant rose garden on March 2nd in hot sunshine!

The Southern Island phase then ended.  We drove our trusty Toyota to the rental depot at the airport.  We loved our, now dirty white, car which drove beautifully for every one of the 2870 miles it has covered.  We then had a long wait for our plane (dropping the car, transfer and check in took minutes, rather than the hour and half we had allowed for) but we are now ensconced in the Holiday Inn near Auckland airport.  It is a case of déjà vu as we were here 5 and a half weeks ago.

Up before the dawn chorus begins tomorrow to catch our plane to the Cook Islands...... the last phase of our adventure.

Kiwi Korner

OF1 on the up

Great Scott!

Tuesday 28th  February

We have completed our last day of tramping in NZ (see I'm talking like a kiwi) and it was another goodun.  We decided to go up the Scott's Track towards Avalanche Summit.  The whole route climbs 1100m in just 2.5 kilometres so that is an average gradient of 1:2.5 or in layman's language, ****** steep!  Actually, it was a cracking walk through the beech forest up a waymarked path and we met very few people all day.  It was a steep, rocky path with bits of minor scrambling to ensure the gradient was unrelenting.  As you made altitude at a rate of knots so the vistas opened out (and the lungs and heart were in overdrive). First there were views of the valley below with our car just below us but looking like a toy then opposite were the magnificent Devil's Punchbowl Falls (geography note: falling from a hanging valley).  We started in mossy beech forest which had that wonderful mouldy  smell but with increasing altitude the trees became smaller and covered in a lacework of lichen with grasses and sedges.  The first objective was to break through the treeline which the lady who runs the motel told me had stupendous views - she was not wrong!  We could see for miles and miles (good song that one!) with deep U-shaped valleys and high mountains (another good song: river deep mountain high).  We continued up the ridge which was marked with poles as there were no trees and the lack of vegetation exposed the route up to the summit - a thin ridge walk.  I continued for a bit but my fear of heights kicked in (it seems to have become more acute recently) and I opted for a return.  OF1 was very kind as I sat down and said I wasn't sure if I could go any further up or down!  However, slowly down the ridge we went (I tried to just look at my feet) until we were back in the trees again - whew.  Lunch was enjoyed looking over the valley before we made our way back down thinking only insane people would walk up this thing! On that note it would be a great short run for L1 when he visits next month!!!! It was quite a relief to finish the knee jarring descent and regain the valley floor.

Not content with taking an album of pictures of the Devil's Punchbowl Falls from across the valley, we decided to walk up to the bottom of them.  '1km and 30 minutes' the board proclaimed.  We thought we could do one kilometre in less than half an hour but what the board didn't tell you was the hundreds of steps (up and down)  that were contained in just 1000m.  Somehow after our 700m descent our legs would not go up steps any more. OF1 found a nice spot to sit and look at the view whilst I was in the vanguard of the party and completed my 'walk to the falls' badge.  A very spectacular waterfall but it must be even better in spring or after heavy rain.

We were not finished and walked another couple of kms to the Bealey Gorge (yet more steps), 'Jack's Hut' - one of the original huts for those who kept a stretch of road open - and then the Wobbly Kea for a drink in their shady garden but still no kea sighted).  Then back to the ranch for a scrub down and rehydrate.

Another golden summer's day, in fact the NZ  autumn season starts tomorrow!  We are driving to Christchurch...

Just off to the Wobbly Kea for dinner  (we do like it but it is also the only place that serves evening meals in this tiny place and shuts at 8pm!) ......

Just spoken to the owner of our motel and discovered that the population of Arthur's Pass is a mere 30.

Castle Hill

Death's Corner

Monday 27th February

Reporting in from Arthur's Pass.  We are in a rather quaint motel on the outskirts of the small village.  Unlike the very sterile apartment in Tekapo this has some real character.  Firstly it is built in the traditional wood and corrugated iron roof style and secondly it is cozy. 

Yesterday we had a bit of a slob day.  We spent the morning in Tekapo drinking coffee and battling the super slow wi-fi.  However, it was nice sitting in the sun overlooking the turquoise lake.  In the afternoon we read and/or painted (the latter went very belly up) before stirring our bones for another visit to the Astro Café at the top of Mount John for yet more stunning views, tea and carrot cake.  The cake was delicious but more a carrot/Christmas pudding cake.  We then went into tourist overdrive and perused the tiny chapel - Church of the Good Shepherd - on the lake shore.  We cooked a salmon, chilli, penne dish and ate it watching the rugby, first Wales v Scotland then the Ireland and France match - we know how to live! (NZ TV is absolutely awful and this was one of the few times we had Sky TV, so we made the most of it).

Last night was a starry one (Tekapo is famous for its dark sky, hence the observatory) and the morning dawned chilly but cloudless and windless - a perfect day.  I know I keep going on about the travelling but yet again we were treated to an amazing drive today.  We lunched at Castle Hill and walked around the massive lumps of limestone which give a castellated look to the hill.  We then continued to a little beyond Arthur's Pass to the Otira Lookout and Death's Corner - you will be pleased to hear that we escaped with our lives and a couple of photos. 

We are now off to the Wobbly Kea for a pizza.  We are yet to meet the parrot like kea which apparently likes to take your belongings, food, etc.  We are also in kiwi country so Kivin is rather excited.......

Time for a cuppa

Stargazing

Sunday 26th February

Now at Lake Tekapo and horror upon horror there is no wi-fi in our holiday home!  Thus there may be a delay in blogging.

Actually there is not too much to relay as we recover from the exertions of the previous days.  We were feeling rather good about our latest walk only to receive a WhatsApp from L1 to say he had run up the 2200 steps and gone further up!!!  Not the way to keep on the right side of your parents!!!

Our last evening at Mount Cook was spent at 'The Old Mountaineer's Café' which served good grub (salmon for OF1 and steak for me) as we watched the mountains change from orange to pink as the sun set.  They could have served up gruel and charged a king's ransom for the view alone.

Next morning we packed up again and drove past a film set where Reece Witherspoon and Opra Winfrey are making 'a wrinkle in time'.  Go and watch it and if you see a white Toyota in the background - that's us!  Our first stop was Twizel - we went round a couple of times - to stock up on petrol and cash.  It has a small parade of shops which included three coffee shops and a general stores.  The latter was quite remarkable as it contained everything you could have thought of and a lot more that you would never think of.  I was grazing when I saw a shelf and a box with 'Carcassone' on it...... then two versions of 'Ticket to Ride' and then all the other board games that we recognised from the Loughborough emporium.  Jake's Stores was a goldmine and we bought a small game with a Hobbit theme - we are in Hobbit Land anyway.

We then meandered to Lake Tekapo which is a small touristy village but with lovely views of the mountains.  On our itinerary this is labeled 'r and r' so that is what we are planning.  After a picnic by the lake we drove to the top of Mount John which is a sizeable hill and home to the university observatory.  Amongst the telescope buildings there is the Astro Café which has the most stupendous views.  We supped our beverages and had great fun people watching - the Chinese tourists were great value as they take a picture every 10 seconds, then a selfie, then a silly selfie, then a video.  After they sit down there is another frenzy of photography as a million images of the coffee are taken.  Amazing.  However, we did catch a little of the bug.... see image below.

It was time to collect the keys to our holiday home which is not in our top three.  It is a newly built one bedroom semi but is soulless (all white, no pictures, etc.) and at the edge of a building site.  Still it is in walking distance of town and has good lake/mountain views. 

New Zealand TV is not great but this one had a basic sky box so we snuggled down and watched 'Allo Allo and then an ancient Prime Suspect. We would have gone for an early night except for the live band in the village with the bass turned up until gone 11.30pm!

Today we have made it as far as a coffee shop with wi-fi and caught up on the big news that Gillingham won yesterday!!  First time in 18 games I believe.  OF1 not so happy that the Welsh rugby team lost to Scotland for the first time in 10 years.

Planning on strolling in the sun, painting and general relaxing today.  TTFN

Two old mountaineers at the Old Mountaineers' Café

Stairway to Heaven

Friday 24th February

There's a lady who's sure all that glitters is gold
And she's buying a stairway to heaven.
When she gets there she knows, 

She will have fantastic views of the Mount Cook area!

Apologies to Led Zeppelin!

Yes, today we tackled the trek up the Mueller Hut track as far as Sealy Tarns which is known as the 'stairway to heaven'. This is a short walk that rises 1968 feet via a flatish started followed by an extremely steep ascent which includes 2200 steps.

Fuelled by eggy bread and bacon we set off.  This was a very dangerous thing to do - not the setting off but cooking the bacon.  There are notices in this large, lovely 'unit' about the cooking of 'odouriferous' foods and the fines payable if you leave a smelly room.  I think by opening all the doors and windows we got away with it!  I am almost embarrassed to keep repeating myself when it comes to the weather - blue skies, cloudless and hot sun again today.

The start of the walk lulls you into a false sense of confidence as you zoom across the valley floor looking up at a near vertical wall of vegetation and rock.  Then the steps start and the next 75 minutes was just unrelenting steps - all 2200 of them.  Many were not your normal house stairs but twice (at least) the riser height which soon turned the thighs throbbing and burning with lactic build up.  The pattern was about 20 foot of footpath then a flight of steps or steep rocks which zigzaged up the valley side, ie we were climbing up an old lateral moraine on the steep bit of a U-shaped valley.  The height gain was memorable and the views so good that stops to admire them were virtually compulsory!

We were moving up with group of four New Zealanders; a very bubbly group of ladies who were enjoying every minute.  They had left their families behind and this was a girl's day out. We have met some lovely folk on our walks.  I forgot to mention the older walker yesterday who had the word 'fossicker' on his shirt so we asked him what it meant (see yesterday's blog).  This was the name of his Rogaining Team which has taken part in the international Rogaining Championships the last few years.  Rogaining?  It's an ultra orienteer, usually your team (2-5 but have to stay in ear shot) has 24 hours to visit check points and gain as many points as possible.  More info: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogaining. He has been to America, Australia and Finland for the internationals and this year he is looking forward to Latvia.  I just cannot imagine walking/ running a 24 hour orienteer on a map covering 100 square miles - bonkers.  As we chatted it emerged that his mother in law lives near the New Forest (Hythe - 'not the posh side' when we mentioned my sister in Lymington!!) and comes to the UK quite a lot with walking in the Brecon Beacons planned for this summer.

Anyway, we continued up the steps with sweat dripping, lungs bursting and legs burning.  We kept overtaking the jolly kiwis when they stopped and then meeting up a few minutes later as we stopped for drink/photo.  This was a different set of walkers from yesterday which comprised tourists, mainly Chinese as we mainly met serious 'trampers' many of whom were German or French.  As we neared the top of the steps OF1 was 'not on form' and I was ahead with the water which did not help!  She also turned down an offer of water from two dishy Spanish lads as I disappeared over the ridge..

We reached the Sealey Tarns which turned out to be large ponds but with the most stupendous views and, bizzarly a picnic table.  There were a lot of pictures taken for each other - today's blog image was taken by the NZ girls on tour. We stayed to take in the view: the nearby Mueller Glacier, the Hooker Valley and Glacier, Lake Pukaki and the village, all overlooked by Mount Cook and all the other snow-capped mountains.  This really was the staircase to heaven!

Some other parties were going on (and very up) to the Mueller Hut but we had achieved our aim.  To go on would have been: 1 mission creep, 2 put us in water deficit mode and 3 knackering.  Thus we retraced our steps; OF1 still feeling light headed ("dazed and confused" on Led Zeppelin I?) and I was feeling my left knee (as usual).  2200 downhill steps sounds easy but they were just too steep to get zoom down so we skipped through the lovely alpine flowers including large daisies and foxgloves as we descended.

The afternoon has been a recharging one - food, beer, coffee, shower - and gawping at the views from our unit.  Thank goodness it didn't smell of that odouriferous bacon!

Next Led Zeppelin song?  "Ramble on" (Led Zeppelin II)

On a camper van......

Climb every mountain, ford every stream

Thursday 23rd February

Or you can walk up the path and use the three very impressive suspension bridges.  Being New Zealand they don't call them suspension bridges but swing bridges - a more apt name as the gentle swinging and bouncing motion as you walk high about the gorge did not inspire confidence in me (on the OF2 fearometer I was, 'worried').  Not to mention the signs that yell "6 persons ONLY".  This goes into the speak kiwi book where we can also add 'trundler park' (shopping trolley collection point) and 'fossicking' (gold prospecting).

We woke up to clear blue skies, yellow sunshine and white capped mountains - see picture below from our unit.  We donned our tramping togs and off we set.  Today we opted for a 3 hour walk up the Hooker Valley.  It was gentle in gradient but the environment was harsh.  Where's the glaciologist when you need one?  This walk was one ice formed feature after another - it was enough to give you a headache or should I say a moraine? 

The views all the way up were fantastic and as you came around the final terminal moraine there was the great reveal - the Hooker Lake with the Hooker Glacier falling into it and Mount Cook reflected in its steely grey, sediment-rich waters with ice bergs floating around it!  We found a quiet place to sit and enjoy this 'awesome' view and even heard a piece of ice cracking higher up the glacier. 

The peace was compromised by a party of school children arriving (about 9/10 years old) who were very well behaved.  It was interesting that it was two boys who were told off for throwing stones into the lake - nature or nurture???  Still, at that age I would have been one of those boys.

The return walk was equally good and we meandered back to the village for lunch.  This was special as we had it on a balcony with fantastic views of Mount Cook with Sir Edmund Hillary!  Okay, so it was his statue but it was still a magic spot - more awe and wonderment for the SMSC audit.  The Hermitage Hotel is the 'posh one' and it's towering presence dominates the single storey motels.  However, it is not significantly more expensive than other offerings which we found unusual.  It also contains the Edmund Hillary Centre which has lots of information and artifacts.  We spent a pleasant hour in the cinema there watching an excellent film about him which was 80% on his Everest Success.  Obviously, New Zealand is very proud of him - quite right too.

We have solved the food problem as the hotel had a mini store and the eateries are very appealing here.  We are now planning tomorrow's adventure whilst pinching ourselves about this incredible weather which  promises to be even better tomorrow.  So we are preparing the boots for another outing.......

It is always interesting (but only to those of an anal nature) which items you have bought with you were inspired and which were a waste of space.  In the latter fits the bobble hat, the gloves and too much cold weather stuff.  In the 'glad we bought them' category are, the string for hanging out the washing, the dirty washing bag (thanks S & J - it saves going through the suitcase sniffing clothes to find if they are clean or dirty) and the  mending kit.  The latter was the subject of major scoffing by OF1 but has come into its own by mending shorts and a cardigan.  So the next time you stay in a posh hotel, liberate that 'free' needle and thread set.

Pain in the Arse

And OF1's neck and my knee!  The 30km bike ride has been successfully completed and we are in recovery - vin rouge et bier seems the ideal combination of substance abuse.

Horror upon horror this morning.....,RAIN!!!!   We have been so used to travelling in our own hot sunshine bubble that we were totally discombobulated.  However, we reported to the pick up in plenty of time.  Well, that's my version, OF1 was not happy with my over enthusiasm and 20 minute wait.  Our driver was the fantastic Dan who drove us to the start via a few key points, set up the bikes and fully briefed us.  I only got upset when he told us (6 cyclists but we went at our own pace and two were on a different route) that maps were only squiggly lines!!!

In cloudy weather we set off from Lake Hawea with our super mountain bikes whizzing (no,  pottering would be a more accurate description).  The first half was around the lake then down the river on a good gravel path.  The colour of the water continues to amaze us - so blue.  At half way there was a little, local café to perk up the legs (and other sore bits) which not only served a damm fine coffee but also a first-class warm, homemade cheese scone.  There was a short, sharp rain event whilst we were quaffing our caffeine so we dragged it out until it had passed. 

The second half was down the Clutha River (it had cut through the glacial deposits to reveal a huge incredible bank - I have pictures for L1 to interpret) and then round the lake shore - this one was Lake Wanaka.  This was a great, but surprisingly undulating, ride with views of the water and the mountains which were slowly emerging as the sun began to shine.  With 2km to go OF1 bonked - the cyclists equivalent of a marathon runner hitting the wall - as her energy levels plummeted.  However, we made it to the wonderfully and accurately described, 'tree in the lake' for our packed lunch before returning the bikes.

Mid afternoon found us on the road again.  We left Wanaka and passed over the tussock grass moorland of the Lindis Pass which was spectacular.  We then drove to Twizel (and did a couple of U turns!) before driving up the valley to Mount Cook Village. The view improving with every kilometre

Our motel is very upmarket (thanks L1) and has amazing views of the snow covered mountains.  As it was late we dived into the next door place which is a sort of weatherspoons in a vague sort of way.  Still it was a rumbustious place full of young folk, beer and chips. The food was good and we found a table overlooking the mountains which finished with pink tops as the sun slowly set.  If clear, the dawn should be a jaffa.

We are now planning the next two days of walking as our sunny bubble seems to have returned.  There are, however, a couple of flies in our ointment.  We assumed that Mount Cook Village would be similar to Fox Glacier Township.  However, it seems to be just accommodation and no bank - we only have $40 cash (or quiche) - or food shop (very little in our reserves for breakfast or lunch).  Hmmm....,back to  PPPPPPP again....

My cup runneth over

Birthday Dishes

Keeping abreast of the news

Tuesday 21st February

Gidday readers (of which I detect are a dwindling number but I wouldn't read this drivel either!)

Last night we celebrated OF1's birthday in some style.  We booked into the Redcliffe in Te Anau which looks like a red corrugated iron shed. Inside it is cosy with lots of memorabilia on the walls - quite unlike most NZ restaurants to date.  It had been used by the Lord of the Rings cast and has the T-shirt to prove it!.  See the image below (sorry that the glass has caused a reflection) and you can make out Ian McKellen's signature.

For first course, OF1 had pulled pork fajitas with red and green salsa and I had hare croquettes with blue cheese aoili.  I enjoyed both but not together.  This prompted OF1 to ask the last time I had hare and I replied, "when I was 27"!! (For those of you struggling it is word play on hare and hair).  Main courses were lamb cutlets for the birthday girl and venison (medium-rare) for me - mine was not too deer!! (Sorry).  The accompanying vegetables were delicious and, interestingly, did not include potatoes. Mine was on a bed of mashed pumpkin, for example.  It was a great meal and the special occasion was truly marked in style.

We woke up this morning to an amazing sight out of the window.  The dawn light and clouds conspired to make the hay field a bright, fiery orange with dark mountains, rainbow and a pink clouds.  We were out in the communal dressing gown trying to get THE picture but the camaras could not quite capture the atmospheric view.

We had our last delicious breakfast with our hostess, Jane, and said a fond farewell to the blue cottage.  We fired up Tanya, programmed Bin and woke up Kivin - the team was off again! 'The open road", said toad..

Today we travelled from Te Anau to Wanaka - just a three hour drive retracing our steps of four days ago.  So it was up over the spectacular Crown Range and this time I have remembered to note that the road sides were a mass of lupins.

We stopped for a late coffee at the hamlet/village of Cardrona.  It was an old gold mining place and is now a small ski resort.  The hotel was built in 1885 and is regarded as very old in NZ.  It was a very quaint place for coffee with a log fire, hunting trophies (boar heads, etc.) on the wall (the answer is yes!  I did make the joke I always make, "it must have been travelling at a hell of a rate...."). There was a glass section in the floor in the middle of the bar room showing the shaft of an old gold mine.

Further down the road there is a fence festooned with bras for about 100m - there are hundreds and hundreds of them to support (sorry again) breast cancer charities.  It was a picture opportunity and a reminder to support the charity.

We arrived in Wanaka for lunch by the lake.  A stroll and a coffee in town before booking up bike hire tomorrow. The weather forecast is ok but not special so we opted not to go up into the mountains but be taken 30 km away in a mini-bus and dropped off with two bikes!  We should enjoy a leisurely, off road, ride through a valley then around Lake Wanaka.  The good news is that there is a café at half way. To warm up I have just completed a 30 minute run along the lake shore which was a step too far. However, I have found that a shower then cold beer have wonderful restorative powers.

Our motel unit is as clean as all of them with the best cooking facilities to date.  This includes, for the first time, a full cooker so we changed our plans and as I write this I can smell the joint of lamb roasting in the oven!  We then plan to hit the bars in town, about 2 minutes walk away.  Are we going to paint the town red?  No, just very pale pink then an early night before the Tour de Wanaka....

OF1 celebrates birthday down under !!!!!¡

Never in doubt

Sunday 19th February

Today in New Zealand started on real low when I opened my phone to find that Gillingham had lost to bottom place Coventry F C.  This was a real doom and gloom moment and the trap door is beckoning for the Gills unless they can reverse current form.

However, my miserable mood only lasted until I opened the curtains - a lovely sunny morning for the organised trip to Doubtful Sound.  We were picked up at The Croft by our bus driver, Justin, who was originally from London and had a trans-hemisphere twang.  He was the font of all knowledge on our two bus journeys.

After the multiple pick ups in Te Anau we sped (actually that is a lie as this was a rattling ancient bus) to the lake jetty at Manapouri.  Here we transferred to our boat, the 'Fiordland Flyer' which took us on the one hour journey across this alpine lake.  It was lovely sitting on the top deck of the boat in hot sunny weather surrounded by mountains after mountains.  The lake had lots of islands which are submerged rouche moutonee - all those years of teaching geography in the classroom and now here it was in the flesh (and not in soggy Snowdonia but see later..).

Off the boat and onto another bus.  This one was even more rickety than the last and Justin had to battle with a recalcitrant gear box which did not make being a passenger comforting.  To make matters more exciting we were traveling onwards over the Wilmot Pass.  This is the most expensive road in NZ (and not connected to any other road) built to ferry machinery from the sea up to the pass at 671m and down to the lake where the largest hydroelectric power station in NZ now resides but all underground (like Dinorwic).  The gravel road took two years to complete and the whole project claimed 16 lives.  The 22km is very steep (1:5 near the summit) and we graunched our way uphill in first gear then downhill in first gear.  The old bus belched, rattled and rolled through mossy forest that clings to the vertiginous rock on a thin covering of moss.  The drops off the road were pretty scary as well - best just to look at the view!

We reached the sea just as our boat was cruising up to the jetty.  OF1 joked that the driver should be called Justin Time - how we laughed!
Transfer number four and we were on Doubtful Sound - actually a Fiord.  The weather had changed as the moisture laden winds rise up the mountains they form clouds.  However, it was dry and considering that this area has over 200 rainy days and over seven metres of rainfall per year (that's 7000 mm compared with west Cornwall at 1000) we were doing well and it gave a mean and moody atmosphere to the cruise.

I could go on about the flooded U shaped valleys, waterfalls, hanging valleys, etc. but will resist as we also saw a variety of fauna.  Albatross, Molly Hawk, Fiordland Crested Penguin and dolphins were all espied.  The dolphins were swimming around us but didn't put on a display of leaping out of the water, etc.

I was a little concerned that a three hour cruise could have been low on the excitement factor but it was anything but as our skipper was a very laid back chappy who gave a superb commentary on the geology, landforms, flora, fauna and history.  One interesting thing we discovered was that the fiord has a layer of lighter, fresh water overlying the salt water and the wildlife has adapted to this unusual environment.  There were only 42 people on a boat that had plenty of space and a coffee machine! 

At the end of the cruise we reversed the journey - back on the bus to go over the Wilmot Pass, onto the boat to cross Lake Manapouri, onto the bus which deposited us outside the B & B.  It had been an exhausting nine hours sitting on buses and boats!

We had delicious fish and chips from the chippy in town to end the day. Tomorrow we are planning a quiet day - coffee, strolling around the lake, painting and sipping local beers are all on the menu!

PS. It's called Doubtful Sound because Captain Cook noted that it was doubtful if it was suitable for a mooring.

Oh what a beautiful morning (and afternoon)

I had a bit of a shock when I woke up this morning - there was a strange woman in bed with me!!!!!  She was similar to OF1 but had a massive top lip - botox or a mosquito bite?  However the view out of the window was better - a layer of mist clung to the valley in the distance.

We are staying in a B & B so off we toddled to breakfast and met the owners and the Danes in the other cottage hidden away in the garden.  They were great walkers and we chatted about 'tramping' as well as Brexit, price of cars/houses/dairy products, etc. with them and our hosts over a yummy brekky.  

Full of vigour and food we set forth to the west.  This was a road trip to beat yesterday and a walk up a small peak en route.  In glorious weather (or wither in kiwi) we drove to Milford Sound but stopping frequently to take pictures of Lake Gunn, the mountains, etc.  The road is a bit of a grockle highway but there was only the sporadic coach or cimper van.  The views of the The Anau Downs, the lakes and then the mountains were many moments of awe and wonder (to fulfil our SMCS requirement for travelling by Ofsted).  There is a 1.4 km tunnel which is single track but someone clever had worked out that traffic lights were better than being forced to reverse for 0.7km (they had obviously seen my reversing!).  There is an electronic board which counts down to when the lights are going green - 4:30 minutes on the way there.

At Milford we had a stroll along the shore path, a coffee then a swift ascent of the lookout.  There were great views of the almost sheer, glaciated walls dropping into the dark water with snow covered peaks and fluffy white clouds.  Mitre Peak looked imposing and just like....A mitre.

We set off back and stopped for lunch at a quiet spot looking at the alpine scenery.  It was a geography teacher's paradise with U shaped valleys, truncated spurs, hanging valleys, moraines, drumlins, terraces, et al.  Private A Level lessons are available......

We stopped at a heaving car park and just found a spot for Tanya the Toyota.  This was the start of the Routeburn Track which we followed uphill for about 3km in forest of ever decreasing height.  We then branched off to scale Key Summit (919m) which zigzaged steeply for another kilometre up alpine meadow to the top where photos were taken - see below.

We reversed the route at pace and returned to base to scrub the sweat, sun block and insect repellent off and we are now off to find a little bistro...

What a Road Trip!

Friday 17th February

A glorious sunny, warm (26°C), day and just a drive from Fox Glacier to The Anau ....... but what a wonderful drive. 

The first section was quick as we travelled through misty forest followed by a few kilometers along the sea shore before turning inland .  Here Highway 6 kicked into gear with beautiful views of both Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea - the water a stunning blue with steep hills rising out of the water.  All the way through this area we were crossing broad, braided rivers on very narrow, single track suspension bridges.  It was a cornucopia of glacial outwash features and moraines.

We then drove over the highest tarmac road in NZ - the Crown Range - again the views of valleys and mountains were superdoopa.  I was asked by two cyclists to take a picture of them both to record the epic ascent.  They spoke broad northern (sorry Dr C, not a scoobee if they were red or white rose) but they are on a round the world bike trip.  They have 6 more weeks in NZ  then fly to USA to cycle across it (as one does) then to Lisbon and cycle home! In kiwi tongue, "awesome".

The final stretch of our 7 hour trip was across farm land to Te Anau.  We actually saw quite a few sheep today as, despite the jokes, their numbers have halved in recent years to be replaced with cattle.  The farming is different here with the animals grazing in high stock densities in small fields, they are then moved to the next field.  It looks odd to us seeing all these fields with the stock crammed into just the occasional one.  There are also alpaca and venison farms.

Te Anau is a lovely lake side, small, town and gateway to the Fiords (no 'j' here).  Our accommodation is vying for top place.  We are in our own one bed cottage in the garden of the B&B owners with views over the lake.  It is a small slice of Utopia...

OF1 having a dunk

The snow capped Southern Alps

Friday 16th February

We woke up to blue skies and sunshine.  OF1 was especially bright eyed and bushy tailed and dragged me kicking and screaming out of a nice warm bed to 'go and see the view'. 

We drove out of the township to a view point just 10km away and the panorama of the snow capped Southern Alps was worth it.  It was a little unfortunate in that we are in the west of the country so we were looking into the rising sun.  However, the early morning sun was lovely but it did see my lightweight down jacket in action for the first time with the temperature about 8°C.  OF1s cunning plan continued with breakfast at Lake Matheson which had sensational views of the mountains which looked even better whilst tucking into eggs on toast with beans and hash browns, all washed down with a coffee.  OF1 was very abstemious and just had the coffee.

We then enjoyed the 4.5km walk around the lake which had viewpoints such as 'lookout', 'jetty view', 'reflection point' and, my favourite, 'view of views'. We both took masses of images, trying for that iconic picture of snow covered mountains reflected in the lake - it's in the can.  The walk passed through podocarp forest so there was dappled shade, mossy banks, ferns and lakeside plants.  It was extremely worthwhile and the path ended back at the café!   We have decided to revisit the café this evening (it becomes an award winning restaurant for dinner) and, hopefully, watch the sunset.

This afternoon, I stayed at the ranch painting and writing whilst OF1 was off again.  She walked up the valley to the snout of the Fox Glacier and returned bubbling with enthusiasm for all things glacial (L1 better watch out for his job!!).  It is relaxing sitting outside in the sun in the mountains.

Back to the painting.  Vincent van G.

It's good to be alive

Tuesday 14 February

A day of travelling with scenic stops.

We left our lovely accommodation in Marahau in the dry but we quickly ran into showers with colourful rainbows (photo stop 1) then persistent rain. A wet coffee stop (NZ is full of great little cafés, some of which roast their own coffee beans) and OF1 took her turn at the wheel. The next two hours were packed with adventure and near death experiences! It didn't start well when she decided to pull out to overtake a slow camper van only to find the biggest lorry you have ever seen and travelling at considerable pace right in front of us. OF1 managed to dive back in and the lorry driver acknowledged her driving skills with a single finger (world's #1 best driver???).

We then hit the coast road with large rollers crashing against the rocks and sending the spray over the road. Again, there were a number of superb photo stops (#2 to #6) with a Lewis Hamilton get away from one - wheels spinning, gravel flying and we were off in a cloud of dust!!  At the last beautiful spot OF1 reversed out of our parking place and somehow failed to spot the large lime green camper van behind. The alternative version is that it was observed and the fact we missed it by inches just demonstrates her expert driving prowess. Hmm...

We stopped for lunch at Paparoa National Park where near Punakaiki there are Pancake Rocks. We ate lunch in rain (well to be strictly accurate, in the car) but then the sky cleared and the sun put his hat on - so did we. Pancake Rocks are a set of spectacular caverns, stacks, arches and blow holes. The sea roared in and the water flew out of the blow holes and up the walls of the caverns. It was a dramatic display put on by dear old mother nature with spray, rainbows and cauldrons of foaming water. As you would imagine the picture-taking-frenzy hit new heights with me using the motor drive on my camera to record the spray reaching up for the sky.

It was my turn behind the wheel and I managed to make it to Hokitika without risking life and limb. In NZ there are many single track bridges with one way having priority. We had to drive on one that shared the narrow bridge with both ways and the train track! I am sure that you would not dispute priorities with a train. It seemed very strange driving down a railway track.

Hokitika is a lovely little sea side town. Like most of NZ it is mostly one storey with very wide streets. It is home to jade, gold and coffee shops plus all the local shops and theatre/cinema. It has an interesting beach of grey sand and flat stones but with piles of driftwood. There is a tradition of making giant sculptures out of the wood; we saw horses and abstract creations. Our accommodation proved the addage of you get what you pay for ...... this was the cheapest of the trip. Still it was clean and the shower hot and wet just very, very bijou and very spartan.

After dark we walked up Glow Worm Dell which lived up to it's name

Wednesday 15th February

We spent the first part of the morning in Hokitika grazing the art and craft shops. I also visited the National Kiwi Centre which turned out to be a local aquarium with two kiwis. Still there was some interesting stuff and then all the customers were invited to feed the giant eels. So the three of us proceeded to a platform above the giant tank to feed these enormous eels, some of which were about 5 foot long (a few were over 100 years old as well). We dangled bits of fish/worm over the water and the eels would rise up and open their mouths, grab the food and suck it in! It was better than it sounds. I was excited about photographing real live kiwis (don't tell Kevin) but made a school boy error - they are shy, nocturnal birds. The good news is that I saw two real kiwis up close and what a bird!  They are the size of a small chicken, large rear end and great long beak. A cross between a hedgehog with feathers and an ant eater. The bad news was, of course, it was pretty dark in the enclosure and photography was banned (the noise as much as the possibility of flash), so no photos.

After a coffee we strolled around the craft shops and did make the odd purchase. We have one that comes in a giant pizza box (should be fun on the aircraft only 5 more flights!) but you will have to see it in situ at #7 to see it in its full glory. OF1 loved thejade and is sporting a couple of lumps suspended from her ears.

We then set sail in our trusty Toyota (not quite so white as it was in Auckland) for Hokitika Gorge, about 30km away. This is a picture postcard view of a suspension bridge over bright blue water. It was very impressive but recent rains in these parts made the water a blue grey
rather than the postcard colour. I was bitten to blazes by the sandflies so lunch was taken cowering in the car.

This afternoon we drove further south to the township of Fox Glacier and are now safely ensconced in our best motel-type room yet The 'unit' has a mezzanine bedroom with a view of the mountains and downstairs a good kitchenette, leather sofa, etc. Fox Glacier is a collection of hotels, motels, hostels, restaurants and places offering helicopter rides up to the glacier. Oh, there is a grocery shop and garage to complete the line up.

The NZ Alps have been shrouded in cloud today BUT the weather is set fair for tomorrow and we plan to do a short walk and go to the best view points. There is one of snow capped mountains reflected in a lake but we need perfect weather and no wind (that‘s the Beaufort scale not us personally) for that shot!

At the end of a two day walk.....

The bug who came to tea!

Very possibly a Weta?

Life on the ocean wave.

Monday 13th February

Our two day hike has successfully been completed and we are sitting like........ two old farts really, complete with cup of tea.

Back to yesterday it started with us outside waiting for a minibus to pick us up at 7.30 am like two elderly school children.  A short drive to the boat company HQ, check in, meet up with Steve and Helen and we were ready to board. We were summoned to embark and we climbed into the 20 seater boat which was on a trailer linked to a tractor.  We then drove for about one kilometre along the beach front road and then the tractor reversed down the beach until we were in the sea!  There is no jetty and with a tidal range approaching 4m the tractors can sometimes go nearly a kilometre out to sea to drop off and pick up.

The water taxi took us for a mini tour of Split Apple Rock, Bark Bay and Tonga Island, the latter to see fur seals (cute).  We then landed at Onetahuti Bay but had to take off our boots and socks to wade ashore onto a sandy beach - the longest in the Abel Tasman National Park.  We planned a 20 km walk on the Able Tasman Coast Path which sounded like a flat stroll along the beach but oh no sir, it was a rollercoaster of a walk.  We started with very steep ascent which, as it turned out, was a portent of things to come.  The Warnes had booked a water taxi back and according to the boards were going to miss the last one by over an hour!  Thus Helen set off like a scalded cat (never seen one but I like the phrase) and then continued to set a fast pace for nearly the remainder of the walk.  The undulating (that's an understatement as it was  truly uppy and downy - it seemed that there was far more upppy!!) path was lovely as it wound around the coast from sea level to 200m (and back again many, many times) through lush bush with viewpoints over the sandy bays, granite cliffs and clear turquoise waters.  The sky was blue, the sun was shining - perfect day to spend with friends.

Lunch was spent at a viewpoint with an OF couple from Illinois who were great fun, although worried that Trump would not let them back in again as they hadn't voted for him!!!  The afternoon was as superb as the morning but with one real downer.  We reached Torrent Bay and there was a sign that read, "Anchorage Bay.  Low tide route 40 mins; high tide route 1 hour 40 mins".  It was not yet low tide.....
This last 90 minutes saw Helen get the bonk (a cyclist term or marathon runners 'hit the wall') but was rejuvenated by chocolate.  Needless to say they made the ferry in good time (Steve had time for a quick dip in the lovely but 19°C sea) and we said a fond farewell.  Steve, Helen and Slyvie have been very kind and generous, particularly with their time.  Their knowledge of NZ flora and fauna enriched the walks.

Well, we were left on a long sweeping beach and our floating hostel was in the bay.  We waved at the catermaran as instructed and a small boat with outboard chugged to pick us up.  It is difficult to describe the Aquapackers boat - it is the big blue and white one in the picture below.  It is run by a very friendly NZ couple who make you feel very much at home.  It only sleeps 22, two double rooms and the remainder in the twin front hulls - described as dormitory but more like submariners triple bunks with a vertiginous ladder for access to the bowels of the ship.  We had an above sea double thank goodness On this floating hostel our fellow ship mates were a mix of nationalities (NZ, German, Spanish, Danish, USA and English) and ages from the chatty 19 year old German, we had supper with, to. .....  us!  A few took the challenge to dive off the roof into the sea and I took the challenge of 'help yourself to tea and coffee'.  There was a small hot shower to scrub away the days grime and a fantastic BBQ supper on the upper deck, oh and a view to die for of a sweeping, sandy beach against a backdrop of verdant forest.  After a tiring day we were lulled to sleep by the gentle swell and faint sound of the small breaking waves. Ah....

We awoke to much more movement, high winds and heavy squalls - help!  After tea in bed (I know my role in life) and a good buffet breakfast, including pancakes fresh off the stove we decided that we had to start the second day of the walk.  We had anoraks and a stiff upper lip so we headed off to fly the flag.

We were ferried to the beach and for the second day in a row had to tackle a job I detest - putting on socks over damp, sandy feet (no matter what you do there is always sand).  The first section was uphiil and 20 minutes later we were on top of the ridge taking off our oilskins and sou'westers and taking photos of a rainbow.  The day very quickly changed from wet English to hot, sunny kiwi.  The 12km walk was very gently undulating and past many little  sandy coves - a super walk which ended with a cafe - heaven.  We started with two large coffees then decided to stay for beers and home-made nachos with beef, salsa and soured cream.

Staggered back to our lovely apartment for an afternoon of writing (blog and postcards), reading, showering and washing our clothes.  We were joined at tea by a giant bug which was comotose/dying but frightened the living daylights out of us.  Tonight we are treating ourselves at a beach side restaurant.

Tomorrow we have a long drive to Hokitika which may not be blog worthy so TTFN.

OF1 on the beach at Kaiteriteri

Queen Charlotte would have been amused.

Saturday 11th February

Back on wi-fi and sitting here in Marahau on the Abel Tasman National Park.  Our lodge apartment, called 'Tango' has the sea one side (see picture) and the back veranda is in forest.  The cacophony of crickets is like tinnitus turned up to 11. You will have needed to watch Spinal Tap for that last bit - it also ages me!

Back to Friday.  At 07:40 we were on a jetty waiting to embark - the weather was dry, windless, but cold.  The Queen Charlotte Sound is quite stunning and it was a picture in the eary morn.  It was a little disconcerting that we were the only folk (out of about 20) that got off at Torea Bay.  The skipper told us to go up the road and turn left. OF1 set off up a one in three road like Ussain Bolt leaving me asthmatically wheezing for England.  At the saddle we met the track.  We were a tad disconcerted to read that our destination was eight hours walk away and we only had six and a half before the boat back to Picton.  The first hour was steeply uphill on the ridge.  However, I was warmed up now and set a steady pace up a track that was very much like an English footpath underfoot with lovely forest of giant ferns and trees.  Every so often there was a view point where one could gaze at the dark blue-green water with forested hills behind with the occasional cove and beach with sometimes a 'batch' (small beach hut /house/shed used at weekends and holidays).  The track continued to offer us superb views all day.  The first hour was uphill until we reached the high point of 407m - time for a water break.  On this first 8km stretch we saw a handful of other walkers.  We had started with four Dutch walkers and we leapfrogged each other throughout the day.  The track is best described as undulating as it wound it's way along the ridge, down to a saddle and then back up again.  At the half way point (in time) we found that we had taken three hours to complete the four hour section - there is life in old dogs yet!  With a feeling of superiority we set forth to tackle the next section of 12.5 km.  Lunch was taken overlooking the Queen Charlotte Sound and a brief talk to our Dutch fellow walkers.  The afternoon's walk was an old bridle track that clung to the steep hillside through lovely beech and fern forest.  It was not far in a straight line but the narrow track followed every inlet and promontory. Towards the end I heard a loud commotion down by the shore.  This turned out to be several nests of Spotted Shag.  I think we would call them Cormorants - we managed a couple of good photos.  On the last section there were a few more walkers and the occasional mountain bike (it is an advanced/intermediate track) but for a lovely summer's day there were few folk around. As we completed our 21km I thought I saw a cafe caravan glistening between gaps in the beech trees - probably a mirage sent to torture the weary, hot, walker? But no....It WAS a little cafe!  We sat by the jetty with coffees and cold drinks and were joined by our dutch friends.  One of them, it turned out, was a football coach and used to take the Dutch U13 side.  He has coached many famous names such as Argen Robben.  His great mate is Andries Jonker the academy coach at Arsenal and he comes over to London to watch football with him.  He told us the the atmosphere in the English grounds is always the best in the world.  He also added that he cannot believe how old fashioned our stadiums are and some are even in the middle of terraced housing!  What a lovely bloke.

Our water taxi arrived and in Picton we hacked off the sweat, grime and factor 50+ under a shower before setting off to see Steve and family near Nelson.  I was pleased that OF1 managed to distinguish between the open doorway and the window this time...

Steve, Helen and Sylvie live in the hills about 15 minutes away from Nelson.  It is an enormous house with 5 acres of land.  They bought it complete with four sheep, four chooks (hens in the Queen's English), one rooster (cockerel, your majesty) and two parrots!  Despite only moving in three weeks ago they have made it very homely but have major plans to change it.

Dinner was delicious fish and chips but with a twist.  We went to a pub that sold lots of local beers and ciders (including berry cider!) We then went to the chippie next door and they came in and served it to us in the pub!  This despite the pub having it's own menu. Strange.

Today we went with Steve et al to Nelson where we strolled round the highly recommended market.  It was brilliant - better than Devizes market or any of the large French or Spanish ones I love so much.  All the stalls were local folk selling their craft, food or other goods.  It was not cheap clothes but individually crafted clothes alongside painters,  toy makers, jewelers, artisan breads, etc.

We then travelled the short distance to the Abel Tasman Park and stopped at a beach (see other picture) of which there are many.  Our accommodation is, yet again, excellent with the added bonus that the manager built it himself.  We are currently waiting for darkness to fall as there are glowworms in a mini-gorge and stream outside our apartment which you cross by bridge.

Tomorrow is an exciting day as we start our two day hike and staying on a floating hostel - the aquapacker.  All will be revealed in the next blog on our return......